Meet Mukah, Part 2: Eat, Sleep and Explore in Borneo

(Borneo Editor: Before we start, head here to read part one.)


Food is not an issue in Borneo’s Mukah. It’s well-cooked, varied and there’s plenty of it.

Those looking for a carbohydrate fix should head to Honey Bakery, opposite the Bus Terminal. Sweet or savoury, hungry shoppers will find much to fill them up in this well-priced, central spot. As a rough guide, expect to pay 1.30 RM for a chicken roll.

deserts, mukah

The daily market adjacent to the boulevard is another culinary hotspot. Curries rub shoulders with delicious satay, as brightly coloured desserts and drinks catch the eye of the sweet-toothed. Noodles, rice and freshly barbecued chicken and fish are also on the menu. Typically a box of curry and rice will cost 6R while desserts tend to be on offer – 3 for 1R.

Fix fast food fetishes with the usual suspects; inversely, fresh fruit/veg is available in abundance. As for local cuisine, head to the myriad cafes and food courts for rice/noodles/soup/fried chicken dishes. Ah Bee Corner, a short walk from the bus terminal, is home to a particularly fine Won Ton Soup. Fresh ocean catches can be found at Medan Seafood next to the Royal Inn.

won ton soup, mukah

In general venue tends to stay open late. Certainly 1 Malaysia Cafe, next to Hotel Sarina, is a nice spot to watch the world go by.

For those who want a croon or a boogie, seek out the karaoke bars and nightclubs. Follow the screeches and dull bass thump.

What do

The Melanau (river people) are indigenous to Sarawak, Borneo and more can be found out about them at Lamin Dala visitor’s lodge and cultural centre. The riverside location at Sungai Tellian is a relaxing setting. A visit costs 3R. Call +60 19-849 5962 for more information, including about accommodation.

clocktower, masjid, mukah

Head to the Taman Boulevard Setiaraja for Mukah’s most iconic view. Look toward the town from the water fountain and you will see the clocktower standing guard in front of the Masjid Setia Raja. The mosque is supposedly one of Southeast Asia’s most beautiful; eagle-eyed observers will note how the roof mimics that of the Melenau headwear.

The standout, though, is the giralda-inflected clocktower. It seems to gently throb as the town’s heartbeat, and is a surprisingly low-key talisman. Those who enjoyed Madura’s Arek Lancor will find much to cherish here.

chimney, mukah

Head riverside along Jalan Boyan to see the Sago Factory chimney. Beside it, the Chinese temple, Tua Pek Kong, is worth a visit; wander round the back for a simple yet peaceful setting replete with statues, candles, incense and a fishpond.

temple, mukah

As with many places in Southeast Asia, the street art in Mukah is an unexpected highlight. Mooch around the old town to find some prime examples.

Mukah’s litter-strewn beach is a 25-minute walk away. Sunbathing is inadvisable but the attendant park and woodland retreat are as good as any for relaxing.

Where stay*

*Don’t forget to budget accordingly for the 10R a night tourism tax. Not just in Borneo, but in Malaysia generally.

There are many hotels dotted around Mukah. The aforementioned Anderson-esque Kingswood (call +60 84 874996) is the undoubted central jewel, with rates starting from 150R a night.

sarina, mukah

The more budget conscious could do worse than head for Hotel Sarina (call +60 84 872659), above, a short walk from the Bus Terminal. En-suite rooms from 65R. Alternatively, the Royal Inn, below, close to the boulevard (+60 84 874333) has en-suites from 52R. Both have plenty of amenities nearby although Wi-Fi connection is patchy.

royal inn, mukah

Get there and away

Terminal Bas Mukah is centrally located with regular transport serving major Borneo destinations as far as Pontianak. A ride to Sibu costs 50R and should take 3-4 hours; expect the same if heading for Miri.

bus terminal, mukah

The airport, with flights operated by MasWings, connects Mukah to Borneo destinations Miri and Kuching. Check online for prices and times.

Useful things to know

Population: 43,824

Language(s): Melanau, Malay, Sarawak Malay, Iban, Mandarin Chinese, Hokkien and English

International dialling code: +60

Time: GMT+8

Money: Malaysian Ringgit (MYR), currently around 5.5MYR to UK£1. Banks and ATMs can be found in the new township

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