Kota Sumenep, on the island of Madura, is one of Indonesia’s great mysteries.
Once the crucible of the country’s modern foundations, Sumenep is now an oft-neglected regency of rural calm, vibrant culture, delicious food and deserted beaches. The welcome is extremely warm, too…
Keraton Sumenep
Keraton Sumenep, the former palace complex, offers an authentic glimpse into the region’s past. Visitors can expect ancient relics, weapons, manuscripts and assorted ephemera, including a horse carriage from the Queen of England. Madurese saronen folk ensembles, above, often ply their trade close by, too.
Karapan Sapi Bull Races
The notorious karapan sapi bull races have their home at Stadion Giling. (2024 update: Not anymore. The stadium was closed upon our last visit in 2023. It’s still worth visiting, however, if only to see the ghost of what once was.) Bribes and subterfuge are said to be commonplace. So too is the deployment of black magic magicians to weave their spells on opposing bovines.
Masjid Agung
This iconic landmark stands as one of Indonesia’s oldest mosques. This masjid dominates the centre of Kota Sumenep thanks to its striking white and yellow gateway. The masjid, which offers a distinct blends of European, Javanese and Chinese architectural influences, often forms the backdrop of the myriad markets and cultural celebrations that punctuate the Madurese calendar.
Gili Iyang
Known as Pulau Oksigen due to the island’s higher-than-average oxygen levels, Gili Iyang’s inhabitants can enjoy long and healthy lives. Indeed, it is not uncommon to witness older generations scaling palm trees with the speed and grace of someone a fraction of their age.
Batuputih
The mined limestone cliffs of Bukit Kapur are worthy of an excursion to Sumenep’s northern coastline. Their distinct carvings and angular forms dominate the surroundings and create a surreal landscape reminiscent of the skewed artwork of M C Escher.
Gili Labak
Perfect for those seeking solitude, this pocket-sized teardrop, home to only 50 people, offers a real insight into local fishing practices, with triangular bagan frames dotting the shoreline. It’s also a great place to see traditional selerek boats, many of them bedecked with colourful liveries in tribute to the Goddess of the sea.
Asta Tinggi
A renowned pilgrimage site, the royal burial ground of Asta Tinggi demonstrates a unique blend of Hindu, Chinese and European architecture, while also offering a prime elevated spot to enjoy Sumenep’s rugged, windswept terrain.
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