Snapshot in Time: Lawang Sewu and the Javanese Railway

Our correspondent traces the tracks to Semarang and discovers a pivotal cog in Central Java’s rail history.

In Pictures: Seven Reasons to Visit Sumenep, The Forgotten Corner of Java

Sumenep, on the island of Madura, is an oft-neglected regency of rural calm, vibrant culture, delicious food and deserted beaches. The welcome is extremely warm, too…

Sumenep: Six Reasons to Visit Java’s Forgotten Corner

Our correspondent shares yet more examples of why Madura’s social and cultural heart is just waiting to be explored.

Ijen Crater: Uneasy Acid Frequencies in Java

Our correspondent descends to the netherworld as the Ijen Crater, Java’s acidic crater lake, ensnares yet another victim.

Madura’s Lesson: On The Bus in Java

Our correspondent boards a bus and encounters a fascinating snapshot of Madurese life.

(Very) Rough Guide: Madura, Java’s Ignored Corner

Our correspondent, excited beyond all reason, remains grateful for the existence of this jagged slice of Indonesia.

In Search of Quiet: Places (in Indonesia) a Way Away From Elsewhere

Our correspondent, lost in the swirl, continues compiling out-of-the-way spots for a reflective traveller to consider.

How Surabaya Got Its Name, Part 2: Steel Forged in Conflict

Our correspondent ponders the role of war and bloodshed in establishing a place’s character.

How Surabaya Got Its Name, Part 1: The Shark and the Crocodile

Our correspondent shares an animalistic take on the naming of East Java’s capital city.

Reverence and Mysticism: Gunung Bromo Displays Its Might

Our correspondent egdes through the murk as a brooding volcano in Indonesia leaves an indelible psychic footprint.

Blood Runs Everywhere: Echoes of Atrocity in Lawang Sewu

Our correspondent uncovers the memory of something sinister in Semarang.

Sickle and Fire: Arek Lancor Symbolises Madura’s Spirit

Our correspondent absorbs the message of a monument that represents Madurese passion and drive.