The island of Madura juts from Java’s northeast corner like the incisor of an ancient beast. As befitting this vast body, one doesn’t have to travel far to find the soul of Madura.
At the far eastern tip of the jagged landmass lies Sumenep, a historically important regency home to bull racing, enticing traditions and idyllic beaches. An oft-neglected corner of Indonesia, this fascinating destination has much to show visitors. *story continues below*
(2024 Editor: EITM's most recent story (click this link here) tries to unravel the enigma of Madura a bit more. It's not the best thing anyone's ever written, but it's got a nice flow and a few anecdotes that might interest the reader.)
Historic Sumenep
For such a little-known place, Sumenep played a big role in Indonesia’s development. This importance dates to the 13th century and the Mongol invasion of Java. A time of rebellion. Raden Wijaya, heir to the Kingdom of Singhasari, fled to Madura in 1292 following a coup d’état by Jayakatwang, Kediri’s viceroy.
Wijaya reached Kota Sumenep. There, in the regency’s capital city, the area’s governor, Aria Wiraraja, implemented a scheme for a new kingdom. In short, he and Wijaya would ally themselves with the Mongol horde to defeat Jayakatwang. The plan worked. By 1293, Jayakatwang tasted defeat. And then, the coalition forces turned their attention to routing the invaders. Power thus gained, a new Javanese kingdom, Majapahit, formed with Wijaya at its head.
Read more: The ghosts of time have settled across Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital.
Vast reach
Majapahit would prove to be one of Indonesia’s most enduring empires. Records show that its tendrils stretched from Sumatra to West Papua. References to the kingdom exist in regional legends as far away as Sumbawa. Moreover, the kingdom’s red brick and terracotta architectural techniques prompted the Balinese style. Majapahit’s influence even saw its red and white royal colours inspire the stripes of Indonesia’s current flag.
As befitting its historical import, Sumenep gained a new name: ‘the Soul of Madura’. A place where aristocratic grace and ancient traditions exist proudly alongside a culture of hospitality. Over time, the Madurese became known as a tough, pious people. Appearances can deceive, though. Yes, the Madurese may well have fire in their bones. But they also rank among Indonesia’s most friendly hosts. Those who visit the place should expect a warm welcome and disbelief that anyone has taken the time to come to the island. The disarmed visitor can then relax into Sumenep life and take a wander, for they have much to find.
Five things to see and do in Sumenep
Sumenep’s beauty lies in its flat, rugged terrain and peaceful backwater charm. However, the region still remains behind a veil of semi-obscurity. The authorities have pushed to increase tourism on the island, and they have found success. Take a look at social media, and a smattering of bules in the Soul of Madura will look right back at you.
Regular visitors have reported that each time they return, they see more foreigners in town. Granted, the numbers rise from none to one to a handful to maybe ten, but that signifies progress. Sustainable progress powered by a genuine interest in what Sumenep can offer.
The suspicion, though, is that Madura does not get the attention it deserves. Even with the opening of the Suramadu Bridge from Surabaya in 2009 and a budding tourism scene, mainland Java and nearby Bali hoover up most visitors. Perhaps down-to-earth Pulau Garam lacks the X-Factor sexiness of its neighbours.
But no matter. Those who make it to the Soul of Madura do so because they wish to learn about Indonesia. Clout rarely plays a part. And where better to see the real thing than a place that sets centuries of culture against a colourful canvas of batik clothing, checkered sarongs and peci caps?
The Tourism Information Center (TIC) can provide help with all aspects of visiting Sumenep. Call Ramadan on +62 813 3428 7550.
(2025 update: The TIC’s closed. But fear not. The Madurese have great powers of perception. Somebody will soon turn up and point you where you want to go.)
The power of bull-racing
The renowned Karapan Sapi bull races run at Kota Sumenep’s Giling Stadium between July and October. They act as a fine introduction to the island’s folklore. Put simply, the story unfolded like this: in days of yore, with the harvest done for another season, plough teams would race across the bare fields.
The organisers of such races had many reasons for this, but three stand out. Firstly, the thundering races would keep the bulls toned and in shape. Secondly, owners could show, with proof, who had the best, strongest and quickest bulls. And thirdly, a friendly wager adds a bit of spice to life.
Remember that bulls and Madura have a strong bond. The animal symbolises the island. Agriculture forms the backbone of the island, thanks to the cultivation of crops like tobacco and rice. A strong bull, therefore, can make harvesting these crops that much easier. And if you’re the best at something, people tend to take notice. People may not see how well bulls can drag a plough. But put the same animals in race conditions, and those very people will quickly take note.
Thus, in the name of spectacle, humans set bulls against one another. In those days, the races saw two pairs of these beasts race down the track. On their back perched young ‘jockeys’, who clung to wooden sledges. It seems that the best teams blended balance and luck, for if one or both bulls tipped into frenzy, the poor jockey would bear the brunt in the form of spectacular crashes, gory injuries and shattered limbs.
Not much changed in the ensuing decades and centuries. The same form prevails, and the same stakes preside. Who has the best bull, and who can milk such acclaim? Karapan sapi brings much glory and prestige, and as the bulls thunder down the track with all the drama of an ancient chariot race, they can confer pride or failure upon their owners.
Traditional Madurese saronen folk ensemble often soundtrack this rousing, kinetic scene. These musicians, who sport silk outfits and play in the gamelan tradition, inspire a hypnotic fervour. And oh, how they dance. Their choreographed moves merge with an insistent combination of gongs, drums and double reed. The resulting swirl has prompted reports from some visitors that they have seen the Soul of Madura made flesh. The thump-thump-thump of many tons of bovine flesh moving at tremendous speed, and the thrill of danger as they race by, can have that effect on people not used to such things.
(2025 update: The stadium is shut. Head to Pamekasan or Sampang to see the races. The same dates apply.)
A beauty contest for cows
Livestock and the glory associated with it make for big business in Indonesia. And whilst the bull races have a distinctly macho I’m-the-best vibe, they somehow lack the grace of controlled movement. Luckily, the stately cows of Madura are on hand to show just how shapely they can be. Power and strength are all good, but a bit of glam goes a long way, too.
No surprise, then, that in Sumenep, the Soul of Madura, one may find Sape Sono’, a beauty contest for cows. This event takes place around the regency in October. The animals, bedecked in finery that mimics bridal elegance, amaze with their graceful appearance and stately movement.
Tong Tong’s carnival atmosphere
Sumenep has much to show. And in October, these offerings reach their peak. This is the time when the Soul of Madura most proudly shows its heart. Great celebrations ensue, and many people come to bask in the dances, clothes, food, music and other things that carry the lifeblood of Pulau Garam.
October marks the anniversary of the region’s founding, you see. And what better time is there to showcase a place’s heritage to the world?
The Tong Tong music festival certainly lifts the spirits. Here, thousands line Kota’s streets, and they find much to stir their senses. It is a glorious sight to behold.
Bands of percussionists, trumpeters, dancers and singers, resplendent in traditional costumes and transported on a procession of ornately carved carts, weave together Madurese songs and music. Animals with jewels for eyes herald the arrival of these groups, and they sometimes get in amongst the crowd. There they stalk the watchers and jump upon those not paying attention, drawing surprised yelps that merge with the barrage of sound and dance.
Batuputih’s limestone scenery
The mined limestone cliffs of Bukit Kapur entice visitors to Sumenep’s northern coastline. There, they may find rural, green land that somehow matches the verdancy of Indonesia’s forests and rice fields but seems completely removed from them. It is a deeper green, perhaps. Less weathered than the mainland, but equally as pure.
And amongst this stunning landscape, overlooking the ocean in places, await the cliffs. Their distinct carvings and angular forms command the view of all who see them. Expect a surreal landscape reminiscent of the skewed artwork of M C Escher. Cubed and angular, the place elicits the sensation of an abstract city. The outside world seems to vanish, absorbed by the limestone. Sound soon recedes, and perspective becomes confused. Some visitors report an attack of nerves, shocked by the isolation they find. But none forget the many-angled forms of Batuputih.
Soak up a slice of history
Kota Sumenep rewards visitors keen to explore on foot. Start a sightseeing tour at Masjid Agung Sumenep, one of Indonesia’s oldest mosques. This iconic landmark has a striking white and yellow gateway, and few people miss it.
From there, cross the road to Sumenep’s alun-alun, an excellent hangout spot which occasionally hosts batik festivals. It’s then just a short stroll to Keraton Sumenep, the former palace complex with an attendant museum that houses relics, ancient weapons, manuscripts and more.
Finally, head for the royal tombs of Asta Tinggi. This popular pilgrimage site boasts a unique blend of Hindu, Chinese and European architecture. The 10km round trek features many nooks, crannies and colourful side streets ripe for exploration. If the humidity proves too much, catch a lift on a becak rickshaw. These modified bicycles offer a smooth respite as they float along Sumenep’s streets, seemingly carried by the cool breezes that buffet the place.
Getting there and away
Daily direct flights with Wings Air are available between Juanda International Airport in Surabaya and Trunojoyo Airport. Flights leave the former at 12.50 pm and make the return journey at 1.50 pm.
(2025 update: The airport no longer receives commercial flights.)
A regular bus service also serves Madura. Journeys between Surabaya’s Bungurasih terminal and Aria Wirajaya terminal on Kota Sumenep’s outskirts should take anything between four and eight hours. Resign yourself to cramped and stifling conditions. Many vehicles do not leave until all space – including the stairwells and passageways – are full.
Getting around Sumenep
Kota Sumenep, aka the Soul of Madura, is compact and lends itself well to walking. The streets are open, the pavements are mostly in good condition, and the traffic rarely becomes too heavy.
Locations to the west of Kota are reachable via the Aria Wiraraja bus terminal.
All points north, east and south of the city are reachable via a minivan service. Newcomers might need a bit of help here because costs, timetables, destinations and so on aren’t obvious. But the general form runs thus: flag down the van, state your destination, arrive, pay the fare.
It might be worth checking the price before setting off. Some people report being overcharged, but when the extra cost comes to roughly 50 cents, one has to question how much it’s worth getting wound up about. Still, it’s good to have at least a vague idea of how things work.
If visitors wish to go anywhere, they should consider bringing their own transport or hiring a private vehicle. Both things can be sorted out in Surabaya, but given it’s 2025 [at the time of updating this story], it’s probably fairly easy to find a Madurese guide or driver online.
Motorcycle taxi ranks are plentiful. Luckily, Grab and Gojek apps also have coverage, although it tends to thin out in rural areas.
Where to stay in Sumenep
The best bet is to stay in Kota itself, especially if planning day trips. Rural options tend to be limited.
Near-neighbours Family Nur and C1 are good hotel choices, being close to coffee shops, restaurants and ATMs. Hotel Surabaya is a more central option and a short walk from Masjid Agung. For those wanting quick access to the bus station, Hotel Musdalifah and Hotel Kangen both offer conveniently close locations. The latter, in particular, benefits from a peaceful, green setting.
Light sleepers would do well to remember that mosques are planted liberally around Sumenep, and loud calls to prayer begin at dawn.
(2025 update: Most of these places seemed to be open last time EITM visited Sumenep in 2023. But don’t be surprised if any of them have shut down. Plan accordingly.)
Food and drink
Eating is a cheap, no-frills affair in Sumenep, the Soul of Madura. Warung restaurants, usually of the point-and-pick Padang variety, are commonplace, as are kaki lima carts. In both settings, the usual Indonesian staples – rice, noodles, satay, tofu, tempe, water spinach and so forth – are down-to-earth, filling and effortlessly delicious.
Happily, the region also has unique delicacies to share. Rujak should appeal to Gado-Gado fans thanks to its combination of banana leaf, vegetables, peanut sauce and fermented petis shrimp paste. For added authenticity, watch it being made at roadside stalls using the traditional flat cobek mortar and pestle.
Cow legs are also a menu mainstay. Kaldu soto sees the legs put in a broth with green beans, while kaldu kokot adds fish paste to the mix. The use of bones in campor, along with peanuts, coconut milk, banana leaf and cassava, ensures no part of the limb goes to waste.
Sumenep’s take on Soto Madura, the island’s speciality soup, offers a distinct flavour incorporating bean sprouts, noodles, chicken, boiled eggs and steamed rice. Should that not prove too filling, indulge in nasi jagung, a unique blend of rice and corn.
Tasty treats
There are rich pickings for those with a sweet tooth, too. Gettas, gooey fried lumps of glutinous rice and grated coconut covered in sugar, is a popular snack, as is angsle, a soup-like dish of milk, bread, peanuts and boiled green beans. The daintiest sweet prize goes to jubede, a miniature log-like roll made from rice flour and brown sugar, all tied up in a tiny bow.
As a mainly Muslim area, the Soul of Madura has very little in the way of bars and booze. Instead, vendors offer a wide range of teas, coffees and iced fruit juice concoctions, including stinky durian flavour. At night, coffee shops are the social scenes of choice. Take a pick from the larger, cavernous venues complete with live music and karaoke, such as Java In or Ramio, or enjoy the intimacy of smaller haunts as found in Tabularasa or Mbahid.
(2025 update: Again, some of these places may have shut down. The coffee scene being what it is in Sumenep, though, you won’t have to go far to find a decent cup. Stadion Ahmad Yani, the home of Perssu Madura City football club, has a resident coffee shop that’s pretty good.)
Islands and beaches
Sumenep’s rocky landscape means it is not widely regarded as a beach destination. However, there are certainly a few ocean settlements to check out. Outside of holidays and weekends, many spots attract few visitors. The beaches aren’t necessarily within walking distance, however, so hitchhiking, minivans, ojeks, guides and so on would be the best way to reach these places.
The northern coastline’s rocky cliffs and verdant rice fields exude rustic charm, which extends to the open expanse of Slopeng beach in Ambunten. Expect sweeping sands and swaying palm trees. Sadly, though, visitors should also prepare to find much plastic waste. The Soul of Madura is a great place, but like many areas in Indonesia, the trash problem is noticeably bad. One visitor, who shall remain nameless but who, spoiler, works for this site, once saw someone at Slopeng walk up to an empty bin and throw their trash on the ground next to it instead.
Combine a trip to the beach with a visit to Slopeng village. Here, in amongst the woods, mask craftsmen sculpt the colourful and much-prized wooden offerings found in Topeng Dhalang dance performances across the region.
Beach front
Lombang, on the east coast, is a long and flat beach. A boundary of casuarina trees results in an intimate, private atmosphere. Getting here can be tricky due to unreliable public transport and GPS coordinates; adventurous visitors should try catching a minivan from Bangkal market in Kota.
There are 126 islands around Sumenep, 44 of which are inhabited. Gili Genting is the closest and boasts Pantai Sembilan, so-called because of its resemblance to the number nine. The waves are calm, the water is clean, and it offers a pleasant setting for snorkelling, although the beach can become crowded. To get here, take one of the regular daily boats from Tanjung port.
Those seeking solitude would enjoy Gili Labak. This pocket-sized teardrop has plenty of spots to watch sunrises and sunsets. The principal trade is snorkelling and diving day trips. But come the evening, a beatific calm descends on the island. To reach Labak, catch a boat from Tanjung port. Regular crossings start at 5 am. Contact the TIC to arrange homestay accommodation.
Serenity flows on Gili Iyang. Known as Pulau Oksigen due to the island’s higher-than-average oxygen levels, its inhabitants can enjoy long and healthy lives. Indeed, visitors report seeing older generations scaling palm trees with the speed and grace of someone a fraction of their age. Iyang is a rocky island, but Pantai Ropet and Batu Cangga both provide pretty sea views. Meanwhile, caves and a shark fossil showcase the island’s history. Daily boats leave Dungkek at 10.00 am and return at 2.00 pm. The TIC can arrange homestays. (2025 update: No, they can’t. See previous note. But if you’re savvy enough to have reached Sumenep, you probably know how to use Google and Whatsapp – ask around.)
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