Samarinda is a city of surprises. For many travellers, the capital of East Kalimantan, Indonesian Borneo, remains an enigma. Far-removed from any tourist trails, it seems to offer very little.
Until, of course, the traveller actually sees Samarinda. Then, the whole mood changes. Typically, one enters the kota via the east over the Mahakam River. A thick canopy of trees obscures the horizon. But the city soon explodes into view. The water beneath the bridge is thick and brown and uninviting. A swirling morass. However, the traveller’s attention settles elsewhere.

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Their eyes fix upon one of Southeast Asia’s largest masjids. Samarinda Islamic Center Mosque, also known as Baitul Muttaqien, pictured, dominates the city’s skyline.
Even from afar, the masjid has a great scale. As wandering eyes scan the cityscape, they’ll catch the mosque’s seven distinct minarets. Hugging the churning river below, this view offers one of the region’s most stirring sights. Against the backdrop of a setting sun, the place seems to have a supernatural air.
Move closer and the building’s details reveal themselves. Fifteen floors and 99 metres high, with striking golden decals, the mosque acts as Samarinda’s heartbeat. City and building merge as one. Such is the effect of Samarinda’s mighty masjid.
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