Brooding Mt Bromo, blissful Bunaken, the Orangutans of Sumatra and Flores’ Komodo Dragons. No wonder Indonesia entices thousands of visitors each year.
Happily, the archipelago is large and diverse. Many visitors happily learn how easily they can slip off the tourist trail. But try as they might, they will struggle to see everywhere. One person in his 80s, a regular visitor to Indonesia for 40 years, calculated that he had seen only a fraction of what the country had to offer. Here are five such examples of less-heralded places worthy of anybody’s time. Underrated Indonesia, in other words.
Sumenep, Madura
As an island, jagged Madura feels slightly shunned by the rest of the archipelago. It juts out of Java as though trying to escape its moorings. And its sharpness bears the look of some ancient predator’s incisors. Symbolic, perhaps, of Madura’s historic clashes with the surrounding region(s).
Dig beneath the surface, though, and a wealth of charm awaits. Sumenep is an open, windswept town. It has a calm pace of life and rugged surroundings that provide a distinctly Mediterranean feel. More often than not, the trundle of a passing becak rickshaw comprises the day’s traffic jam.
A leisurely walk from the beautiful and striking Masjid Jamik Sumenep – Madura’s most iconic mosque – to the Royal Tombs should take no more than a few hours. Factor in a stop at the Stadion Karapan Sapi, home of the annual bull races, for a complete sweep of the town’s landmarks. Further afield, Gili Labak is the perfect setting for snorkelling and diving, with nowhere near the crowds of nearby Bali.
Read more: Men of the forest still roam the rainforests of Sumatra.
However, the real attraction will always remain the warm, if slightly incredulous, welcome. Try learning a few Madurese phrases. With a friendly smile and inquisitive nature, locals will happily draw any visitors into the fold. And those newcomers who know when to use ‘sakalangkong’ will earn special favour.
Semarang, Java
This lesser-known city, central Java’s provincial capital, offers a blend of the old and the new. Dutch colonial architecture and a bustling Chinatown rub shoulders with myriad mid-rises. The initial impression is of a scattershot, aimless sprawl that lacks the eye-opening heritage of close(ish) Yogyakarta.
Fear not, though. A little digging will uncover a great source of treasure. History buffs should enjoy the beautiful Sam Po Kong temple (Gedung Batu), built in honour of the Chinese commander Cheng Ho of the Ming Dynasty. Meanwhile, colonial buildings come no more striking than Lewang Sawu. Also known as A Thousand Doors, this former railway headquarters served as the Japanese Army HQ in the Second World War.
But to get a real taste of Semarang’s unexpected charm, head for Kampung Pelangai. This so-called Rainbow Village is exactly that: a multi-hued hamlet oozing with colour. Pieces of art adorn every wall in this small bubble of calm amidst the surrounding hubbub. The city is home to many vibrant examples of street art. Kampung Pelangai is the boldest statement of them all. A colourful reminder, then, of the beauty of underrated Indonesia.
Samarinda, Kalimantan
Those who head west to Borneo will find a riverfront city with ramshackle allure. Like the majority of Indonesian towns and cities, the primary sensation is auditory. The ebb and flow of droning traffic permeates the atmosphere, and it never fully recedes.
The sheer grandeur of the city’s Islamic Centre overcomes such issues, though. Ornate and colourful, to say it dominates the skyline is an understatement. Most tourists will first see the mosque as they approach the Mahakam River from the south. All of a sudden, the canopy of trees opens up, Samarinda hoves into view, and the giant masjid shines as its centrepiece. It is one of Indonesia’s most jaw-dropping spectacles. But relatively few visitors enjoy such a view.
Don’t forget to enjoy a coffee at Stadion Gor Segiri, home of Pusamania Borneo FC. For a savoury sensation, head to Warung Padang UPIK on Jalan Danau Toba No.38 and sample Kalimantan’s finest sambal.
Denpasar, Bali
Sprawling and chaotic, Denpasar is at first glance a hard city to love. Bali’s capital is loud and frenetic and intimidating. The unaware visitor will find much to shock them. Indeed, visitors can be forgiven for swerving the city in favour of the bucolic beaches and bars in nearby Sanur or Canggu.
This is a pity. Beneath Denpasar’s chaotic gloss waits a destination of real warmth, with residents happy to chat. Furthermore, here lies a hub of Balinese culture where temples and palaces line the streets. The Bali Museum offers a fascinating insight into the island’s history – via dance, ritual, textiles and more. And in terms of grandeur, the Bajra Sandhi monument in Puputan Park drops many jaws. The site pays tribute to the Balinese struggle with the Dutch colonists, and it towers over the area. Lucky visitors may even be able to catch a baseball game in the nearby park,
Banda Neira, Maluku
Without question, Indonesia’s finest destination, hidden or otherwise. The remote Bandas often fly under the radar. More than any, they encapsulate the notion of Underrated Indonesia. The classic idyllic getaway tropes are all in place. Deserted beaches. A warm welcome. Clear water ripe for diving. And, in Gunung Api, a resident volcano. This obscure corner of southern Maluku caters perfectly for the passer-through with no real agenda.
Dilapidated villas and museums rub shoulders in a nod to the area’s colonial past. At one time, the island soared as a global trade centre of mace and nutmeg. Today, however, life seems more laissez-faire. Transport is sporadic at best. Many fall into a soporific daze as the flower-filled streets and easy-going pace work their woozy charms. Soon enough, locals will treat newcomers like old friends.
Indeed, the warm welcome and total lack of cynicism make it impossible to feel stress. Instead, visitors should give themselves to simply walking around. Only then will they find what makes this corner of underrated Indonesia so special. And perhaps they will then wonder how to extend their stay just that little bit longer.
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