The archipelago by which all other archipelagoes are measured, on account of the convergence of innumerable islands, cultures, languages, folklore, traditions. A nation of staggering depth, and one that could take lifetimes to unravel.
How Surabaya Got Its Name, Part 2: Steel Forged in Conflict Our correspondent ponders the role of war and bloodshed in establishing a place's character. Continue reading
How Surabaya Got Its Name, Part 1: The Shark and the Crocodile Our correspondent recounts an animalistic take on the naming of East Java's capital city. Continue reading
Reverence and Mysticism: Gunung Bromo Displays Its Might Our correspondent egdes through the murk as a brooding volcano in Indonesia leaves an indelible psychic footprint. Continue reading
Blood Runs Everywhere: Echoes of Atrocity in Lawang Sewu Our correspondent uncovers the memory of something sinister in Semarang. Continue reading
Snapshot in Time: Lawang Sewu and the Javanese Railway Our correspondent traces the tracks to Semarang and discovers a pivotal cog in Central Java's rail history. Continue reading
Sickle and Fire: Arek Lancor Symbolises Madura's Spirit Our correspondent absorbs the message of a monument that represents Madurese passion and drive. Continue reading
Silent Waters: Bagan Platforms and Night Fishing in Indonesia Our correspondent observes the fishing platforms that silently dot Indonesia’s waters. Continue reading
In Pictures: Seven Reasons to Visit Sumenep, The Forgotten Corner of Java Sumenep, on the island of Madura, is an oft-neglected regency of rural calm, vibrant culture, delicious food and deserted beaches. The welcome is extremely warm, too … Continue reading
Aimless Wandering: Indonesian Locations Ripe for Exploration One of the lesser-heralded joys of visiting Indonesia is that of simply exploring without purpose, as evidenced by traipsing around this selection of treasure chests. Continue reading
Tradition and Lore: Intriguing Sites in Indonesia Whilst Indonesia has plenty to entice visitors, it is the hidden depths that often offer the most compelling allure. Here are seven such examples. Continue reading
Primeval Bond: The Komodo Dragons of Rinca Island Our correspondent encounters ancient beasts and discovers a link to the planet’s primordial past. Continue reading
Lost in Sync: Banda Neira Reveals Its Secrets Our correspondent becomes attuned to the distinct frequencies shared by the famed Spice Islands of Maluku. Continue reading
Peering Through: Tana Toraja and Life Under the Surface Our correspondent in Sulawesi creates a gap through which something tries to get out. Continue reading
Mt Bromo: Power, Mystery and the Hammer of the Gods Our correspondent encounters an elemental force channelling the very essence of Indonesia herself. Continue reading
Time’s Sands: The Pattern of Life in Legung Our correspondent discovers a longstanding tradition on the east coast of Sumenep. Continue reading
Grand Ceremony: Uldaul Sheds Light on Madura’s Traditions Our correspondent, an outsider lest we forget, gleans understanding of Javanese culture in a trip to Pamekesan. Continue reading
Out of Sync: Bunaken Island and a Yearning Calm Our correspondent, falling from a great height, lands on Sulawesi’s shimmering island. Continue reading
Step Again into the Doorway: Another Selection of Indonesia’s Esoteric Sites Our correspondent delves once more into the netherworld in, of and around the archipelago. Continue reading
Step into the Doorway: A Selection of Indonesia’s Esoteric Sites, Part 1 Our correspondent reels as the sheer weight and magnitude of Indonesian folklore bleeds through the cracks of reality. Continue reading
Breathe Deep: Gili Iyang and the Fountain of Youth Our correspondent encounters an island whereupon exists the source of a life extended. Continue reading
Island Form: An Inexplicable Encounter with Gili Labak’s Strange Presence Our correspondent becomes entranced – should that be prepared? – on an Indonesian teardrop. Continue reading
Coffee Culture: A Brief Refreshment Break in Surabaya Our correspondent espies a wooden cart and follows the aroma to Java’s most famous export. Continue reading
Tainted Sunset: Recycling a Cause for Concern on Saparua Our correspondent washes up on Maluku’s Pulau Saparua and catches two glimpses: one endearing, the other disturbing. Continue reading
Ghastly Market: Jakarta’s Curiosities Pronounce Infernal Judgement Our correspondent bears witness to the malign reach of Indonesian folklore on notorious Jalan Surabaya. Continue reading
The Devil’s Weed: Smoking, Indonesia and the Strongest of Links Never has there been a more symbiotic bond than ‘twixt the archipelago and tobacco. Continue reading
Hugging the Horizon: Samarinda’s Iconic Mosque Hoves Into View Our correspondent gazes in wonderment at an unexpectedly eye-catching Kalimantan masjid. Continue reading
Grisly Passage: Tana Toraja and the Cost of Dying Our correspondent discovers in Sulawesi a life beyond that we can comprehend. Continue reading
Sumenep: Six Reasons to Visit Java’s Forgotten Corner Our correspondent shares yet more examples of why Madura’s social and cultural heart is just waiting to be explored. Continue reading
Something Wicked: Approaching the Ijen Crater Our correspondent hears uneasy truths as Java’s acid lake hoves into view. Continue reading
Explore Sumenep: top things to see and do, best hotels and where to eat Our correspondent, an altruistic character, shares YET ANOTHER guide to Madura. This one’s slightly less wordy than the other ones but they’re essentially the same. Continue reading
Perceptive Spirit: An Unsettling Taxi Ride in Surabaya Our correspondent glimpses between the cracks into East Java’s ghostly interior. Continue reading
Walking With Purpose: A Pilgrimage to Asta Tinggi Royal Tombs Our correspondent becomes a devotee on his journey to one of Sumenep’s most iconic landmarks. Continue reading
Ijen Crater: Uneasy Acid Frequencies in Java Our correspondent descends to the netherworld as the Ijen Crater, Java’s acidic crater lake, ensnares yet another victim. Continue reading
Welcome to Sumenep, the Soul of Madura Our correspondent explores Sumenep, a region of historic significance and the cradle of modern Indonesia. Continue reading
Sacred Lakes: Kelimutu and Indonesian Mythology Our correspondent witnesses the profound reach of folklore in Flores. Continue reading
City Beacon: Kampung Pelangai and the Vibrancy of Colour Our correspondent finds the rainbow after stumbling across Semarang’s hidden pot of gold. Continue reading
Madura’s Lesson: On The Bus in Java Our correspondent boards a bus and encounters a fascinating snapshot of Madurese life. Continue reading
Welcome to Banda: Meeting The Boss in the Middle of Nowhere Our correspondent enjoys a low-key, energetic welcome to the Banda Islands, Indonesia’s most charming secret hideaway. Continue reading
Off The Tourist Trail In Indonesia: Five Underrated Destinations Our correspondent spent x amount of time in Indonesia and found these lesser heralded, but by no means inferior, destinations. Continue reading
Bahasa Indonesian Primer: Numbers and Basic Transactions Our correspondent, fixing for more bargaining in Indonesia, presents a guide to Bahasa. Continue reading
Language Primer: Madurese Our correspondent steps onto Madura and, vernacular guide in tow, senses the rest of Indonesia withdrawing everso slightly. Continue reading
North Sulawesi: Highlights from The Highlands Our correspondent shares some choice morsels from a trip to another Indonesian hotspot. Continue reading
Paradise Burden: The Home Truth Of Gili Trawangan Our correspondent encounters an uncomfortable dose of reality on a so-called ‘paradise’ island. Continue reading
Long Haul: Crossing Sumatra On The Midnight Bus To Nowhere Our correspondent savours the sensory overload of an overnight bus journey in Indonesia. Continue reading
(Very) Rough Guide: Madura, Java’s Ignored Corner Our correspondent, excited beyond all reason, remains grateful for the existence of this jagged slice of Indonesia. Continue reading
(Very) Rough Guide to Banda: Maluku’s prettiest island chain in a nutshell Our correspondent was lucky enough to reach Maluku and fell deeply for its soporific island outliers. Continue reading
Introducing Madura, Part Three: How to Get Around and Speak Madurese (Kind Of) Our correspondent offers a vague guide to Madura which is neither vague enough to be useless nor concise enough to be helpful. Continue reading
Introducing Madura, Part Two: More Useful Snippets of Island Life Our correspondent continues their vague guide to life on Madura, an Indonesian outpost of some repute. Continue reading
Introducing Madura, Part One: Room to Breathe Away from the Crowds Our correspondent finds themselves on Madura, one of Indonesia’s lesser-known locations, and embarks on a short tour. Continue reading
Men of the Jungle: An Encounter with Orangutans in Bukit Lawang Our correspondent treks through a Sumatran rainforest on the hunt for orangutans. Is he prepared for what he’ll encounter? Continue reading
The Rising Sun Awakens Bunaken Our correspondent savours the perfect sunrise as he adapts to island life in Sulawesi. Continue reading
Weekuri Lake: Sumba’s Stunning, Obscure Aquatic Attraction Our correspondent hops on a bike in search of one of Indonesia’s least-visited bodies of water. Continue reading
Lovina: Impressions of a Town Trying to Catch Up Our correspondent, upon arriving in northern Bali, finds a town struggling in the midst of a barren low season. Continue reading
Ijen Crater: An Infernal Descent Our correspondent encounters the fiery pits of a nightmarish hellscape in Java. Continue reading
Pulau Saparua’s Gloriously Golden Sunset Our correspondent rubs their eyes, cartoon-style, as the days comes to a shimmering end in Maluku. Continue reading
Arek Lancor: A Slight Introduction to Madura Our correspondent finds a lowkey icon in the middle of Madura. Continue reading
North Sulawesi: A Brief Guide Our correspondent – still enamoured of Indonesia – presents a rough guide to North Sulawesi. Continue reading
Snapshot in Time: Borobudur Keeps a Watchful Eye Our correspondent is truly privileged to absorb a vital part of Java’s history. Continue reading
Reverence and Mysticism: An Encounter with Volcanic Mount Bromo Our correspondent takes a step back as the sheer historic scale of a colossus in Java threatens to overwhelm him. Continue reading
Snapshot in Time: A New Day Begins in Manado Our correspondent embraces the calm before the storm as Manado gears up for another busy day. Continue reading
Bunaken: A Quick Capsule Guide to Island Life Our correspondent, enamoured of this little getaway in Sulawesi, provides some hopefully helpful hints and tips. Continue reading
Snapshot in Time: Navigating the Trans-Bunaken Highway Our correspondent takes a walk around Bunaken and finds himself constantly looking over his shoulder as the ‘constant’ island traffic whizzes by. Continue reading
Elemental Force: Seeing Mount Lokon Up Close and Personal Our correspondent wakes up early for a volcanic trek in Tomohon. Continue reading
Tomohon: A Brief Guide Our correspondent presents a rough guide to Tomohon, a stand-out attraction during any trip to Sulawesi. Continue reading
Eye In The Middle 