In Pictures: Seven Reasons to Visit Sumenep, The Forgotten Corner of Java Sumenep, on the island of Madura, is an oft-neglected regency of rural calm, vibrant culture, delicious food and deserted beaches. The welcome is extremely warm, too…
Aimless Wandering: Indonesian Locations Ripe for Exploration One of the lesser-heralded joys of visiting Indonesia is that of simply exploring without purpose, as evidenced by traipsing around this selection of treasure chests.
Tradition and Lore: Intriguing Sites in Indonesia Whilst Indonesia has plenty to entice visitors, it is the hidden depths that often offer the most compelling allure. Here are seven such examples.
Primeval Bond: The Komodo Dragons of Rinca Island Our correspondent encounters ancient beasts and discovers a link to the planet’s primordial past.
Lost in Sync: Banda Neira Reveals Its Secrets Our correspondent becomes attuned to the distinct frequencies shared by the famed Spice Islands of Maluku.
Peering Through: Tana Toraja and Life Under the Surface Our correspondent in Sulawesi creates a gap through which something tries to get out.
Mt Bromo: Power, Mystery and the Hammer of the Gods Our correspondent encounters an elemental force channelling the very essence of Indonesia herself.
Time’s Sands: The Pattern of Life in Legung Our correspondent discovers a longstanding tradition on the east coast of Sumenep.
Grand Ceremony: Uldaul Sheds Light on Madura’s Traditions Our correspondent, an outsider lest we forget, gleans understanding of Javanese culture in a trip to Pamekesan
Out of Sync: Bunaken Island and a Yearning Calm Our correspondent, falling from a great height, lands on Sulawesi’s shimmering island
Step Again into the Doorway: Another Selection of Indonesia’s Esoteric Sites Our correspondent delves once more into the netherworld in, of and around the archipelago.
Step into the Doorway: A Selection of Indonesia’s Esoteric Sites, Part 1 Our correspondent reels as the sheer weight and magnitude of Indonesian folklore bleeds through the cracks of reality.
Breathe Deep: Gili Iyang and the Fountain of Youth Our correspondent encounters an island whereupon exists the source of a life extended.
Island Form: An Inexplicable Encounter with Gili Labak’s Strange Presence Our correspondent becomes entranced – should that be prepared? – on an Indonesian teardrop.
Coffee Culture: A Brief Refreshment Break in Surabaya Our correspondent espies a wooden cart and follows the aroma to Java’s most famous export.
Tainted Sunset: Recycling a Cause for Concern on Saparua Our correspondent washes up on Maluku’s Pulau Saparua and catches two glimpses: one endearing, the other disturbing.
Ghastly Market: Jakarta’s Curiosities Pronounce Infernal Judgement Our correspondent bears witness to the malign reach of Indonesian folklore on notorious Jalan Surabaya.
The Devil’s Weed: Smoking, Indonesia and the Strongest of Links Never has there been a more symbiotic bond than ‘twixt the archipelago and tobacco.
Hugging the Horizon: Samarinda’s Iconic Mosque Hoves Into View Our correspondent gazes in wonderment at an unexpectedly eye-catching Kalimantan masjid.
Grisly Passage: Tana Toraja and the Cost of Dying Our correspondent discovers in Sulawesi a life beyond that we can comprehend.
Sumenep: Six Reasons to Visit Java’s Forgotten Corner Our correspondent shares yet more examples of why Madura’s social and cultural heart is just waiting to be explored.
Something Wicked: Approaching the Ijen Crater Our correspondent hears uneasy truths as Java’s acid lake hoves into view.
Explore Sumenep: top things to see and do, best hotels and where to eat Our correspondent, an altruistic character, shares YET ANOTHER guide to Madura. This one’s slightly less wordy than the other ones but they’re essentially the same.
Perceptive Spirit: An Unsettling Taxi Ride in Surabaya Our correspondent glimpses between the cracks into East Java’s ghostly interior.
Walking With Purpose: A Pilgrimage to Asta Tinggi Royal Tombs Our correspondent becomes a devotee on his journey to one of Sumenep’s most iconic landmarks
Ijen Crater: Uneasy Acid Frequencies in Java Our correspondent descends to the netherworld as the Ijen Crater, Java’s acidic crater lake, ensnares yet another victim.
Welcome to Sumenep, the Soul of Madura Our correspondent explores Sumenep, a region of historic significance and the cradle of modern Indonesia.
Sacred Lakes: Kelimutu and Indonesian Mythology Our correspondent witnesses the profound reach of folklore in Flores.
City Beacon: Kampung Pelangai and the Vibrancy of Colour Our correspondent finds the rainbow after stumbling across Semarang’s hidden pot of gold.
Madura’s Lesson: On The Bus in Java Our correspondent boards a bus and encounters a fascinating snapshot of Madurese life.
Welcome to Banda: Meeting The Boss in the Middle of Nowhere Our correspondent enjoys a low-key, energetic welcome to the Banda Islands, Indonesia’s most charming secret hideaway.
Off The Tourist Trail In Indonesia: Five Underrated Destinations Our correspondent spent x amount of time in Indonesia and found these lesser heralded, but by no means inferior, destinations.
Bahasa Indonesian Primer: Numbers and Basic Transactions Our correspondent, fixing for more bargaining in Indonesia, presents a guide to Bahasa.
Language Primer: Madurese Our correspondent steps onto Madura and, vernacular guide in tow, senses the rest of Indonesia withdrawing everso slightly.
North Sulawesi: Highlights from The Highlands Our correspondent shares some choice morsels from a trip to another Indonesian hotspot.
Paradise Burden: The Home Truth Of Gili Trawangan Our correspondent encounters an uncomfortable dose of reality on a so-called ‘paradise’ island.
Long Haul: Crossing Sumatra On The Midnight Bus To Nowhere Our correspondent savours the sensory overload of an overnight bus journey in Indonesia.
(Very) Rough Guide: Madura, Java’s Ignored Corner Our correspondent, excited beyond all reason, remains grateful for the existence of this jagged slice of Indonesia.
Reverence and Mysticism: Mt Bromo Displays its Might Our correspondent egdes through the murk as a brooding volcano in Indonesia leaves an indelible psychic footprint.
(Very) Rough Guide to Banda: Maluku’s prettiest island chain in a nutshell Our correspondent was lucky enough to reach Maluku and fell deeply for its soporific island outliers.
Introducing Madura, Part Three: How to Get Around and Speak Madurese (Kind Of) Our correspondent offers a vague guide to Madura which is neither vague enough to be useless nor concise enough to be helpful.
Introducing Madura, Part Two: More Useful Snippets of Island Life Our correspondent continues their vague guide to life on Madura, an Indonesian outpost of some repute.
Introducing Madura, Part One: Room to Breathe Away from the Crowds Our correspondent finds themselves on Madura, one of Indonesia’s lesser-known locations, and embarks on a short tour.
Men of the Jungle: An Encounter with Orangutans in Bukit Lawang Our correspondent treks through a Sumatran rainforest on the hunt for orangutans. Is he prepared for what he’ll encounter?
The Rising Sun Awakens Bunaken Our correspondent savours the perfect sunrise as he adapts to island life in Sulawesi.
Weekuri Lake: Sumba’s Stunning, Obscure Aquatic Attraction Our correspondent hops on a bike in search of one of Indonesia’s least-visited bodies of water.
Lovina: Impressions of a Town Trying to Catch Up Our correspondent, upon arriving in northern Bali, finds a town struggling in the midst of a barren low season.
Ijen Crater: An Infernal Descent Our correspondent encounters the fiery pits of a nightmarish hellscape in Java.
Pulau Saparua’s Gloriously Golden Sunset Our correspondent rubs their eyes, cartoon-style, as the days comes to a shimmering end in Maluku.
Arek Lancor: A Slight Introduction to Madura Our correspondent finds a lowkey icon in the middle of Madura.
North Sulawesi: A Brief Guide Our correspondent – still enamoured of Indonesia – presents a rough guide to North Sulawesi.
Snapshot in Time: Borobudur Keeps a Watchful Eye Our correspondent is truly privileged to absorb a vital part of Java’s history.
Reverence and Mysticism: An Encounter with Volcanic Mount Bromo Our correspondent takes a step back as the sheer historic scale of a colossus in Java threatens to overwhelm him.
Snapshot in Time: A New Day Begins in Manado Our correspondent embraces the calm before the storm as Manado gears up for another busy day.
Bunaken: A Quick Capsule Guide to Island Life Our correspondent, enamoured of this little getaway in Sulawesi, provides some hopefully helpful hints and tips.
Snapshot in Time: Navigating the Trans-Bunaken Highway Our correspondent takes a walk around Bunaken and finds himself constantly looking over his shoulder as the ‘constant’ island traffic whizzes by.
Elemental Force: Seeing Mount Lokon Up Close and Personal Our correspondent wakes up early for a volcanic trek in Tomohon.
Tomohon: A Brief Guide Our correspondent presents a rough guide to Tomohon, a stand-out attraction during any trip to Sulawesi.