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For many visitors to Indonesia, the Banda Islands, historically renowned as a global centre of the spice trade, represent something of an unknown entity. This is certainly true of Banda Neira, as we hope this guide shows.

With all the classic idyllic getaway tropes in place – deserted beaches, a warm welcome, clear water ripe for swimming and, in Gunung Api, a resident volcano – this obscure corner of southern Maluku caters perfectly for the traveller with no real plans.

(2026 update: This article was conceived and written in 2017/8. Whilst the general stuff about ambience and atmosphere probably still holds, specific details – prices, travel, accommodation and so on – are most likely a bit out of date. We’ve updated relevant info where possible to reflect these changes. As with all EitM content, it’s best to consider this guide non-definitive but vaguely useful, possibly. That said, since the reader is savvy enough to know about Banda in the first place, we have infinite trust that they’ll know how things work and can plan their trip accordingly.)

The first port of call for many will be sleepy Bandaneira/Banda Neira (also known as Banda). Visitors should not be surprised to find themselves wooed into a soporific daze as the flower-filled streets and easy-going pace work their woozy charms.

Famed as a source of nutmeg and other spices, the Banda Islands were colonised by the Portuguese and then the Dutch. This colonial influence still lingers in the form of buildings and evidence of brutal violence against the islanders.

Why go to Banda Neira

Many arrivals head straight for nearby islands Ai and Hatta – a fine choice thanks to their excellent snorkelling, diving and undeveloped beaches. For others, though, the real magic lies in absorbing Banda Neira’s unique atmosphere, where nothing works as it should.

Plans are at the mercy of the weather or, in some cases, the language barrier. As such, this unpredictability facilitates a looser, more relaxed attitude. The news of a cancelled boat, for instance, will bring a smile and a shrug rather than a moan. Even better, such news prompts a sudden yearning for delicious cookies from the marketplace. Washing down a couple of these biscuits with a kopi susu while marvelling at the beauty of Banda is one of Indonesia’s greatest treats.

After a few days of walking around, visitors will find that many islanders greet them like old friends. If they’re lucky, the visitors will learn a new Bahasa Indonesia phrase or two from their hosts. At such points, ‘Banda Neira time’ takes hold. The warm welcome and total lack of cynicism make it impossible to feel stressed. Instead, visitors feel compelled to see more of the daily comings and goings of a genuine Indonesian outpost.

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A walk down the charmingly rundown streets may lead to a street party. Or equally, a conversation on the sidelines of a volleyball tournament could well bring an invitation to a residential committee meeting.

These are disparate examples, but they all point to the same thing. As Banda’s gentle form of chaos begins to take hold, visitors will discover the island has etched its way onto their hearts.

What to do on Banda Neira

The best way to see Banda Neira is to walk around the peninsula. There, visitors can see dilapidated villas and museums that outline the area’s colonial past, sometimes in graphic and gory detail. The colonial-era Banda Neira church, Gereja Tua Banda, on Jl. Gereja Tua, is a very pretty building defined by its sturdy Doric columns and VOC markings that remind everyone of the Dutch occupation of Banda.

Beach fans and sun-worshippers in search of golden sand and clear blue sea are also in luck. They should head straight for Pantai Malole to the island’s north. Those who delve further into the surrounding jungle can expect to find hidden, isolated stretches of beach. They are perfect for enjoying a cooling dip in the shadow of Gunung Api.

No walking tour would be complete without a detour around Tanah Rata village. Visitors will not only gain an insight into the island’s tranquil pace but also make some new friends. Inquisitive youngsters gather to show off the area, share secret handshakes and lead an impromptu spice tour.

Back in Banda, the pair of forts – Benteng Belgica and Benteng Nassau – present great views and highlight the violent extent of the Dutch occupation. In keeping with the island’s laissez-faire nature, they seem to open sporadically. Expect to pay a 10,000rp donation.

Meanwhile, Rumah Badaya, Banda’s little museum (9 am – 5 pm, 20,000rp), is also worth a visit with historic artefacts on display.

For those interested in stargazing, Banda Neira offers an ideal spot to watch the skies. The airstrip with its wide-open spaces is a great place to lie back and stare into infinity (watch out for motorbikes). The jetty outside Delfika 2 guest house offers equally cosmic views. Tita Lama‘s a nice place to watch the sunrise, too.

Where to stay on Banda Neira

Delfika 2 guest house enjoys an ideal location down an alley between the market and the jetty. Balcony rooms (300,000rp) in particular showcase Gunung Api in all its glory. Downstairs rooms (275,000rp), meanwhile, enjoy a spacious common area. Contact Mr Bahri at delfika1@yahoo.com for more information. Remember, these are 2017 prices.

2026 update: Looks like Delfika 2’s still open. Check for current prices.

Weather

Banda has two seasons, dry and wet. There are two dry seasons, with the first covering March and April. Nobody seems to know what happens between May and August, but we’d hazard a guess that it’s sometimes hot and sometimes wet. After that, the dry season resumes from September to November. The rainy season then takes over. It lasts from December until February, and brings high rainfall, wind and rough seas. The temperature stays consistent all year round.

EitM spent a couple of weeks on Banda over Christmas and New Year (i.e., December) during the height of the rainy season. Yes, the rain fell heavily each day, and we were glad to have an umbrella. But the rainfall wasn’t constant, and it didn’t ruin the holiday. If you’re in and around Banda during the rainy season, prepare to lose at least a couple of hours to the musim hujan every day. The heavy weather and rough seas can also affect ferries and flights, so consider that during the planning process. 

We’re not diving folk, and we don’t really know the best time to go diving, or how the weather might affect that. There’s bound to be some excellent Banda diving content floating around, however, so finding out that kind of info won’t be hard.

Food and drink

Many warung and vendors, centred around the harbour, offer no-frills, classic fare. Those looking for tasty dining should look no further than Delfika Cafe. There, they will find fruit juices, pancakes and all manner of sweet treats that complement Indonesian classics.

Cookies and doughnuts – both fiendishly addictive – are available from street sellers, while nutmeg jam, a Banda Islands speciality, enjoys a ubiquitous presence.

Getting there and away: flights and ferries

2026 update: This is the site you want: Getting to Banda. Comprehensive and regularly updated info on flights and ferries.

A trip to Banda will most likely call for patience and flexibility. This is especially true during wet periods, when boats and flights face regular cancellations.

2026 update: Supposedly, Susi Air and Alternative Airlines offer flights from Ambon to Banda Neira and back again. However, a quick search didn’t find any flights, so flying doesn’t seem like the most reliable option. You could try driving to Banda, but EitM can’t guarantee you’d make it very far.

Boats seem like the best bet for most visitors, although that’s not necessarily saying much. In 2017, we used the Express Bahari 2B boat, which left from Tulehu harbour in Ambon for Banda. Tulehu’s about an hour from Ambon by car. However, trips can fall victim to the weather, with crossings often cancelled – the harbour office, guest houses or restaurants can all provide updates. The trip was six hours, with VIP tickets costing 650,000rp and economy seats available for 400,000rp.

2026 update: It seems that the Express Bahari 2B boat no longer runs. As of 2024, the Bahtera Nusantara 02 car ferry looks to be the main budget-ish option from Tulehu. Wikitravel suggests making inquiries/bookings through Pak Jery, +62 852 9959 1075 (WhatsApp). Verify in Ambon before setting off, and remember that all this contradictory, unclear information is all part of the fun of reaching a faraway place like Banda.

PELNI ferries

PELNI ferries (approx. 110,000rp) are a surer way to reach and leave Banda. Journeys are 8 to 15 hours, and they take place every two weeks or so. That fact on its own tells you all you need to know about how out of the way Banda is. Check the PELNI website or the PELNI office on Banda for timetables. Boats leave from Ambon harbour. There’s also a PELNI app, but we never used it and can’t vouch for it.

Boats to the other Banda islands

It’s possible to reach the other islands in the Banda chain from Banda Neira. For example, boats – usually of the long, thin ketinting variety – leave the jetty outside Delfika 2 for passage to Ai and Hatta, Monday to Saturday, typically in the mornings. Presumably, people can organise boats to Api, Run/Rhun, Besar/Lonthor, Pisang/Syahrir or elsewhere from this jetty. And if not, somebody will point them in the right direction. Trips cost about 50,000rp.

Ask around, and make sure to confirm with the captain when the boat will leave. It will help to know a bit of Bahasa Indonesia – at the time, we didn’t understand the word ‘sekarang‘, which means ‘now‘. As a result, we ended up delaying ourselves because, asking when a boat was leaving, the captain would say ‘sekarang’ and we, none the wiser, would nod vaguely and wander off. The boat, naturally, would then leave without us. It took a couple of failed attempts – and a few days – for us to work out what was going on.

Visitors can also charter boats at an inflated rate (up to 1,000,000rp per vessel per trip). As of 2026, these costs have likely risen, but since the visitor has made it to Banda, we trust they know how to budget and recognise the need to charter transport if circumstances call for it.

Banks and money

There’s a BRI Bank with an ATM to the west of Fort Nassau and opposite Rumah Makan Abhy. However, the ATM’s not the most reliable place in the world and doesn’t always work. The best bet is to stock up on money in Ambon or Tual or wherever you’re coming from. Banda has money changers, but we didn’t use any and wouldn’t know the best place to go. The general chatter seemed to suggest that people who wanted to exchange money shouldn’t expect good rates.

2026 Editor: If you like this, please read our guide to Bunaken, another of Indonesia’s life-defining islands.