(Basic) Madura Guide, Part Three: How to Get Around and Speak Madurese (Kind Of)

(2025 Reminder Editor: Don’t forget to read parts one and two of EITM’s Madura guide. This story first appeared in 2018, so prices, exchange rates, accommodation, travel, and so on may have changed a fair bit. Consider the following information a precis rather than anything definitive.)

While travelling around Madura is simple in theory, in practice, it can prove trying. There are regular buses, but oftentimes they are cramped and sweaty. Our researcher spent one journey jammed in the stairwell trying to avoid a sea of vomit on the floor.

Don’t feel put off, though. Instead, expect a communal scene. Fellow passengers will always strike up a conversation, and there are plenty of smiles going round. A few Bahasa phrases go a long way, too.

Take the following as a (very) rough guide for bus travel:

• Damri bus from Surabaya airport to Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih (Surabaya): 25,000R, 30 minutes
• Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih (Surabaya) to Bangkalan (Tangkel stop): 40,000R, two-three hours
• Bangkalan to Sumenep (Terminal Arya Wirajaya): 40,000R, up to eight hours. The traffic outside Bangkalan at weekends or on market days can be heavy
• Sumenep to Pamekasan (Terminal Ronggosukowati, pictured): 15,000R, one hour
• Pamekasan to Sampang (Terminal Sampang): 15,000R, one hour
• Sampang to Surabaya (Terminal Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih : 40,000R, four hours

In addition, there’s also an overnight bus from Bangkalan Terminal Bangkalan Ceria to Jakarta.

In terms of getting around, expect to see the ubiquitous ojek motorcycle taxis everywhere. So too becaks, pictured above, the cycle rickshaws that offer a calmer alternative compared to their noisier bike cousins. The Grab or Gojek apps work on Madura, although don’t rely too heavily on them when heading away from busy areas. But that’s not an issue, either, because it’s simple enough to organise transport through guest houses and so forth.

Useful things to know 

Population: 3.65 million

Language(s): Madurese, Bahasa Indonesia; Basic English understood and spoken

International dialling code: +62

Time: GMT+7

Money: Indonesian rupiah (IDR), currently around 18,360IDR to UK£1. Banks and ATMs can be found in the main towns.

Madurese language primer

Although Bahasa Indonesia / Umum is widely spoken across Madura, it would be useful to have a few indigenous words handy. Deploying a smattering of Madurese can provoke excited reactions. Our researcher almost made somebody explore with excitement simply by saying ‘thank you’.

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Read More: El Explorador: Sleepwalking Around the Dream Site of Boquete

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This is by no means a comprehensive list. But if, for some reason, you want to know the Madurese for ‘bald’ look no further:

Thank you – Sakalangkong

No problem – Depadeh (artinya)

Excuse me (seeking help) – Ta’ langkong/takalong (similar to ‘permisi’ in Bahasa)

Please (greeting) – Tore lenggi

I want… – Kaule terro

Ask – Atanya ah

Where is… – Edimah…

Assassination Classroom – Kelas ghebei mate e oreng*

Bald – Bhutak

Tall – Tengghi

*No, us neither

So endeth the Madura guide.