This page has affiliate links. If you click and buy something, EitM might earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you, the reader. As always, thanks for reading.
Bunaken: (Very) Vague Guide to Island Life in North Sulawesi
Nestling in the Celebes Sea to the north of Sulawesi, Bunaken is an island quite unlike any other.
An ideal counterpoint to the hustle and bustle of nearby Manado, this pulau exudes a quiet calm and easy, unrelaxed pace of life.
As a world-renowned diving and snorkelling site, Bunaken National Marine Park – encompassing Bunaken, the extinct volcano Manado Tua, Siladen, Mantehage, Nain, and Nain Kecil – offers plenty of scope for underwater activities. And those visitors keen to relax should not feel left out, either. They will feel right at home amongst the island’s mangrove forests and pristine beaches.
(2026 update: This story first appeared in 2017/8. Prices, accommodation, transport, contact details and so on have probably changed a lot since then – heads up.)
Why go to Bunaken
Because you like peaceful island living, or you want to experience one of the finest exponents of the art.
Time seems to evaporate as Bunaken works its subtly magical charms. The welcoming atmosphere means stays can often extend from days into weeks as travellers become locked into the island’s peaceful rhythm. One traveller we met on Bunaken was so enamoured of the place that they buried a compass on the beach, to signify their intense bond with an island to which they would always return.
Read More: How Surabaya Got Its Name, Part 1: The Shark and the Crocodile.
Visitors should expect the usual timeless island tropes. Bamboo huts, wandering troubadours with acoustic guitars, palm trees, motorcycle taxis (ojeks), sociable dogs, hammocks and fine dining of the fresh seafood variety. All these things and more besides. Many have reported finding fewer better feelings than sitting, Bintang in hand, watching the colourful sunset from Bunaken’s pretty beaches. It is certainly a soothing balm for anyone wishing to escape the pressures of their day-to-day lives, if only for a while.
What to do on Bunaken
Bunaken is one of the world’s foremost diving destinations. Due to its semi-remote location it attracts divers keen to escape the more crowded waters of Bali and Thailand.
Rumours of passing Manatee and Mola Mola tend to prove mostly unfounded. However, the ocean depths do offer a great many delights. Sponge crabs and seahorses wind their ways among the beautiful corals, while barracudas and reef sharks roam the currents.
A number of fine schools operate on the island. Two Fish Divers is especially well-regarded thanks to its 5-star rating from professional diving association PADI. Expect to pay 1,650,000 IDR / £50 for two dives (as of May 2026). Be sure to check before booking.
For those after a more relaxed – and slightly cheaper – experience, snorkelling could be the way to go. A day spent trawling the waters around Bunaken is a day well spent. Head out towards the ocean wall where all kinds of colourful critters float by. Rental of masks and fins costs about 60,000 IDR for a couple of hours – check with your accommodation for current prices.
Where to stay on Bunaken
Accommodation is attached to Bunaken’s dive resorts, with a variety of homestays and guest houses also available.
Try Lorenso’s Cottages, a 15-minute walk from the dock. A communal affair with bungalows spread around a mangrove forest on the water’s edge, guests can expect an easygoing atmosphere.
The man himself is a garrulous host. He often holds court with tales of life on the island and Sulawesi’s native Minahasan tribal culture.
Three meals a day, as well as water, tea and coffee, are provided.
May 2026 update: A quick look on Agoda suggests a room / bungalow per night at Lorenso’s cost between approx. 187,000 IDR / £8 [one adult] and 535,000 IDR / £22 [three adults]. Those are likely low season prices and will probably cost more in high season.
When to go
Divers should know that Bunaken has a tropical climate. The wet season from November to April brings frequent rain and reduced underwater visibility.
Temperatures rise rapidly for the rest of the year, with barely a cloud in the sky.
Getting there and away
Public boats leave daily from Manado’s Bersehati market at 2.00 pm with a one-way ticket costing approx. 50,000 IDR (probably a bit more as of 2026). The return trip leaves at 8.30 am. Arrange transport and confirm times with your resort.
Regular passengers speak of a ‘local price’ on the boat, that presumably is a bit cheaper and applies to known individuals. It won’t apply to pretty much most people, though, so put it out of your head.
Certain ship captains seem to have mastered the power of telepathy and materialisation. One captain we’d never met knew us by name as soon as we arrived at the port. On Bunaken, the same guy would appear from nowhere, say hello and disappear again. All of this, by the way, was very friendly and totally non-intrusive, and further evidence of how perceptive many Indonesians seem to be.
(Curious Editor: Perhaps this has piqued your interest in Sulawesi. If that’s the case, please enjoy these brief guides to Tomohon and the north of the island.)
Discover more from Eye in the Middle
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
