Nestling in the Celebes Sea to the north of Sulawesi, Bunaken is an island quite unlike any other.

An ideal counterpoint to the hustle and bustle of nearby Manado, this pulau exudes a quiet calm and easy, unrelaxed pace of life

As a world-renowned diving and snorkelling site, Bunaken National Marine Park – encompassing Bunaken, the extinct volcano Manado Tua, Siladen, Mantehage, Nain, and Nain Kecil – offers plenty of scope for underwater adventures. And those visitors keen to relax should not feel left out, either. They will feel right at home amongst the island’s distinct mangrove forests and pristine beaches.

(2025 update: This story first appeared in 2017/8. Prices, accommodation, transport, contact details and so on have probably changed a lot since then – heads up.)

Why go

Because you like peaceful island living, or you want to experience one of the finest exponents of the art.

Time seems to evaporate as Bunaken works its subtly magical charms. The welcoming atmosphere means stays can often extend from days into weeks as travellers become locked into Bunaken’s peaceful rhythm.

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Read More: How Surabaya Got Its Name, Part 1: The Shark and the Crocodile.

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Visitors should expect the usual timeless island tropes. Bamboo huts, wandering troubadours with acoustic guitars, palm trees, motorcycle taxis (ojeks), hammocks and fine food. All these things and more besides. Many have reported finding fewer better feelings than sitting, Bintang in hand, watching the colourful sunset from Bunaken.

What do

Bunaken is one of the world’s foremost diving destinations. Due to its semi-remote location it attracts divers keen to escape the more crowded waters of Bali and Thailand.

Rumours of passing Manatee and Mola Mola tend to prove mostly unfounded. However, the ocean depths do offer a great many delights. Sponge crabs and seahorses wind their ways among the beautiful corals, while barracudas and reef sharks roam the currents.

A number of fine schools operate on the island. Two Fish Divers is especially well-regarded thanks to its 5-star rating from professional diving association PADI. Expect to pay 400,000R to 1,170,000R for dives.

For those after a more relaxed – and slightly cheaper – experience, snorkelling could be the way to go. A day spent trawling the waters around Bunaken is a day well spent. Head out towards the ocean wall where all kinds of colourful critters float by. Rental of masks and fins costs about 60,000R for a couple of hours.

Where stay

Accommodation is attached to Bunaken’s dive resorts, with a variety of homestays and guest houses also available.

Try Lorenso’s Cottages, a 15-minute walk from the dock. A communal affair with bungalows spread around a mangrove forest on the water’s edge, guests can expect an easygoing atmosphere.

The man himself is a garrulous host. He often holds court with tales of life on the island and Sulawesi’s native Minahasan tribal culture.

Three meals a day, as well as water, tea and coffee, are provided. A four-person bungalow costs 200,000R in the low season (October to May). Expect to pay much more in the high season (June to September).

When go

Divers should know that Bunaken has a tropical climate. The wet season from November to April brings frequent rain and reduced underwater visibility.

Temperatures rise rapidly for the rest of the year, with barely a cloud in the sky.

How get there and away

Public boats leave daily from Manado’s Bersehati market at 2.00 pm with a one-way ticket costing 50,000R. The return trip leaves at 8.30 am. Arrange transport with your resort. 

(Curious Editor: Perhaps this has piqued your interest in Sulawesi. If that’s the case, please enjoy these brief guides to Tomohon and the north of the island.)