A Madurese trait, it would seem, is to stay hidden in plain sight.

For an island in such a central location – a couple of hours to Surabaya’s north and within striking distance of Bali – it remains an enigmatic locale. The tourism trade is mostly non-existent, and the few who do manage to make it there tend to congregate solely for the annual bull races. Mostly, mention of Madura is met with a shrug and a non-committal shake of the head. Not that the fiercely independent Madurese seem to mind all that much.

Historically, there have been feuds with Java and Kalimantan, resulting in bloodshed, and it still seems, even today, that a mutual resentment lingers. Accusations of coarseness and pigheadedness are met with derision; it soon becomes clear how much pride the Madurese take in their fang-shaped island. It’s also very obvious how little they care for their neighbours’ opinions.

Wordy welcome

Unsurprisingly, then, this strong sense of identity extends to Madura’s indigenous language. Madurese is one of Indonesia’s 300 different native dialects. Should an outsider attempt to speak it, they’ll initially encounter confusion, then shock and smiling disbelief. And then another phrase or two; with so few resources available, the best way to learn Madurese is to absorb it. Happily, the islanders are more than happy to share.

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Read More: Life Lessons: Recollections of an Ajarn in Bangkok.

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For all its stubborn reputation, Madura is also incredibly friendly. Visitors will find people simply want to talk to them and, should they open up, will soon be equipped with the skeleton of a new vocabulary. This list, by no means complete, is an example of that. Gleaned on a bus journey between Bangkalan and Sumenep, it’s evidence of not only the warm welcome in store but also, perhaps, a sign that Madura is more than happy to reveal itself when the time is right.

English	Madurese
Basics	Dasar
How are you?	Baramah kabhara banah
What is your name?	Sapah nyamana banah?
My name is (Tom)	Nyamana kaulah (Tom)
Where are you from?	Dari dimah banah?
I am from (England)	Kaulah dari (Inggris)
Thank you	Sakalangkong
No problem	Depadeh (artinya) / Sapalikuh
Excuse me (seeking help)	Ta’langkong / Takalong
Please (greeting)	Tore lenggi
I want …	Kaule terro …
What?	Napah?
Who?	Pasera?
Why?	Arapah?
When?	Nalehkana?
Where?	Edimah?
How?	Baramah?
How much?	Sanapa arghena?
Ask	Atanya ah
Directions	Arah
Where is …	Edimah …
School	Sakola
Harbour	Palabhuan
(Over) there	Edissah
(Over) here	Edinnah
Forwards	Maju
Backwards	Kahbuddhi
Turn around	Abali
Left	Kacer
Right	Kangan
Keep going	Teros ajhalan
How far?	Baramma jaunah?
Food / Drink	Kakanan / Enomman
Eat / drink	Ngakan / ngenom
Water	Aeng
Chicken	Ajem
Lamb	Embi kebhes
Beef	Dhaging sapeh
Pork	Dhaging babbih
Fish	Jhuko
Crackers	Kerupuk
Numbers	Angka
0	Kosong
1	Settong
2	Ḍuwah
3	Telloh
4	Empah
5	Lemmah
6	Ennem
7	Pettoh
8	Balluh
9	Sangah
10	Sa polo
11	Sa bellas
12	Duwah bellas
13	Telloh bellas
14	Pah bellas
15	Lemmah bellas
16	Nem bellas
17	Pettoh bellas
18	Balluh bellas
19	Sangah bellas
20	Duwah poloh
30	Telloh poloh
40	Pah poloh
50	Lemmah poloh
60	Nem poloh
70	Pettoh poloh
80	Balluh poloh
90	Sangah poloh
Hundred	Atosen
Thousand	Ebu
Million	Juta
How old are you?	Berempa omora banah?
I am (30) years old	Omor kaulah tello polo taon
Miscellaneous	Cem-macem
Hour	Pokol
Day	Areh
Month	Bulen
Year	Taon
Bald	Bhutak
Tall	Tengghi
Thunder	Galutuh
Wind	Angin
Storm	Kelap
Four elements	Empah unsur
Cigar	Cerutu
Just sit (as in wait)	Tinggal dudu
I like your nose	Sengko’ seneng ka elongnga benah

(Language Editor: Although Bahasa is widely spoken across Madura, it’s useful to know a few indigenous words. Whilst this is by no means a comprehensive list, if you want to know the Madurese for ‘bald’, look no further.)