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The island of Madura juts from Java’s northeast corner like the incisor of an ancient beast. There is much to unravel here. As befitting this vast body, a visitor may have to travel a while to learn how Madura works. Their quest, however, will soon pay off. At the far eastern tip of the jagged landmass waits Sumenep. This fascinating region is home to bull racing, enticing lore, pretty islands and much more. Sumenep is also an oft-neglected corner of Indonesia, making it a worthwhile place to get to know.

Introduction to Madura

From the outside, the island of Madura is one of Indonesia’s great secrets. Once the source of the country’s modern foundations, Madura, or Pulau Garam, the isle of salt, offers rural calm, vibrant culture, delicious food and deserted beaches. And yet, few international tourists ever make it there. No one can really tell why.

Perhaps the island hides in plain sight. Or maybe it can deflect attention away from itself. Sometimes, it seems Madura retreats further into the distance whenever a person thinks of it. Indeed, some outsiders may find the lack of flights and tales of long, cramped bus rides across the island in rickety, careworn vehicles a bit of a turn-off. 

Such doubts, coupled with the stubborn Madurese reputation and easy access to East Javan sites like Malang’s Rainbow Village, the Ijen Crater, and Mount Bromo, could help explain why people stay on the mainland and give Madura a miss.

But Madura has many things to offer visitors. At the far eastern tip of the jagged landmass lies Sumenep, a regency rich in history and culture. And those who go to this oft-neglected corner of Indonesia will find lots to whet their appetite for grace and tradition. 

Bull racing. Idyllic beaches. Striking architecture. Unique forms of expression. So much is there to absorb in Sumenep, in fact, that the place has another name: the Soul of Madura. And this soul will prove to those who listen why Pulau Garam has as much heart as anywhere in Java.

Sumenep: An Overview

Kabupaten Sumenep is a region in the east of Madura. This dry, arid island – a centre of sea salt production – lacks the peaks of the Javanese mainland, and it rarely troubles ‘must-visit places in Indonesia’-style travel lists.

But each region in Madura plays host to a culture, history and heritage as vital as it is vibrant. Sumenep, both town and region, is no exception. It is home to many traditional arts and practices, and it encapsulates so much of the culture and history of the island that many call Sumenep the Soul of Madura.

Sumenep’s reach extends as far east as the Kangean islands, where gas and oil production help support the local economy. To the north awaits Masalembu, home to an endemic cockatoo. Bearing south, meanwhile, will lead to islands like Talango, Gili Labak and Gili Genting. Those who head west will quickly reach Pamekasan. 

There is much to see and learn within these limits. Because there are no enormous gunungs or mountains, Sumenep offers a sense of wide space denied to many parts of Java. A walk there feels less cramped and sweat-inducing than elsewhere on the mainland. 

Many monuments and buildings – civic, religious, cultural – litter this historic place, from which the whole region was governed between 1269 and 1883. Each site is charged with grace and tradition, where Javanese history blends with Islamic roots. And the surrounding fields, within which bulls plough the ground to harvest crops like tobacco, maize and cloves, give Sumenep its agrarian backbone.

Sumenep and Islam

Sumenep is an Islamic place, where the kyai leaders wield much influence in faith, business and politics. The town has many pilgrimage spots and tombs of Islamic saints and scholars, including Sunan Cendana. Mosques are widespread, as are the attendant zikr chants, sholawat songs and Adhan calls to prayer.

These recitations are often so amplified that they become dubby and distorted. Multiply this by however many mosques there are in any one place, and the resulting sound is extraordinary: at once holy, noisy and disorienting. It is a sensation often found in Indonesia, where the unaware recoil in shock as many calls to prayer suddenly erupt from nearby minaret towers.

These abrupt sounds float in the air and merge whenever they can with others of their own kind. The result is a new voice that adds to the clamour and amplifies the message shared within. Soon enough, the calls move into the distance. There, they spread the news far and wide and begin the process anew, leaving behind only a faint echo of their short lives. In Sumenep, the same thing happens five times a day. More than once, this pious din left EitM – a secular body – somewhat dazed by the intensity of it all.

It should come as no surprise, then, that people in Sumenep are devout. Even outsiders who do not know the tenets of Islam will note the loose clothing, which reflects Islamic modesty. Many women favour sarongs, abaya dresses and hijab scarves, while men tend to wear sarongs, collared shirts and peci / songkok caps. 

Islam demands that its followers abide by an ethic of hospitality that makes guests, a gift of God, feel welcome. This is certainly true of Sumenep. The few visitors that make it to Madura report a disarmingly warm welcome tinged with friendly surprise, as though to say, ‘You’ve come here!?’

Sometimes, these meetings can last many hours and can prove a little overwhelming. Entire families and circles of friends wander over to greet the visitor. Not long after that, gifts of food, coffee and cigarettes make their way to the dazed guests’ hands. 

And thus, the easygoing charm of the Soul of Madura quickly reveals itself in the city centre’s open streets. It is a town where gloriously ornate mosques stir the soul, and the surrounding rice fields ripple in a pleasingly serene fashion.

Sumenep and Majapahit

For such a little-known place, Sumenep played a huge role in Indonesia’s growth. In the 13th century, the Mongols invaded Java, a place rocked by strife and rebellion. A coup d’état by Jayakatwang, Kediri’s viceroy, had forced Raden Wijaya, heir to the Kingdom of Singhasari, to flee for his life. He arrived on Madura in 1292. His port of call: Sumenep.

There, in the regency’s capital city, the area’s governor, Aria Wiraraja, hatched a scheme for a new kingdom. First, Wijaya would pretend to submit to Kediri’s power, which freed him to build a base in Java. He did so in the Tarik forest, southeast of Mojokerto. Wijaya named this place Majapahit, after the bitter maja fruit that grew there.

In a play of much intrigue, Wiraraja and Wijaya would ally themselves with the Mongol horde to see off Jayakatwang. The plan worked. By 1293, Jayakatwang tasted defeat, his forces smashed to pieces. And then, the coalition forces turned their focus on the drained and unsuspecting Mongols. The invaders suffered huge losses. They left Java as fast as they could, returning to the Yuan Dynasty in disgrace. Power thus gained, a new Javanese kingdom, Majapahit, formed with Wijaya at its head.

This Hindu-Buddhist empire would become one of Southeast Asia’s most powerful kingdoms. It stretched from Sumatra to West Papua. References to the kingdom exist in regional legends as far away as Sumbawa. Majapahit shaped the course of modern Indonesia. The kingdom’s colours even inspired Sang Saka Merah-Putih, the archipelago’s current red and white flag.

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Read More: The ghosts of time have settled across Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital.

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(2026 Editor: EitM has tried to understand Madura a bit more here. It's not the best thing anyone's ever written, but it's got a nice flow and a few anecdotes that might interest the reader.)

Sumenep: History, Grace and Tradition

As befitting its historical import, Sumenep gained a new name: ‘the Soul of Madura’. A place where aristocratic grace and ancient traditions exist proudly alongside a culture of hospitality. Over time, the Madurese became known as a tough, pious people. Appearances can deceive, though.

Yes, the Madurese may well have fire in their bones. But they also rank among Indonesia’s most friendly hosts. Those who visit the place should expect a warm welcome and disbelief that anyone has taken the time to come to the island. The disarmed visitor can then relax into Sumenep life and take a wander, for they have much to find.

Sumenep: Things to See, Do and Learn

Sumenep’s beauty lies in its flat, rugged terrain and peaceful backwater charm. However, the region remains hidden behind a veil of semi-obscurity. The authorities have pushed to increase tourism on the island, and they have found success. Take a look at social media, and a smattering of bules in the Soul of Madura will look right back at you.

Regular visitors have reported that each time they return, they see more foreigners in town. Granted, the numbers rise from none to one to a handful to maybe ten, but that signifies progress. Sustainable progress powered by a genuine interest in what Sumenep can offer.

The suspicion, though, is that Madura does not get the attention it deserves. Even with the opening of the Suramadu Bridge from Surabaya in 2009 and a budding tourism scene, mainland Java and nearby Bali hoover up most visitors. Perhaps down-to-earth Pulau Garam lacks the X-Factor sexiness of its neighbours. In the past, people in Sumenep have opined, with a sense of resignation, that the only thing the bridge succeeded in doing was easing the passage of drugs to Madura.

For the most part, the Soul of Madura appeals to those who wish to learn about Indonesia. Clout rarely plays a part. And where better to see the real thing than a place that sets centuries of culture against a colourful canvas of batik clothing, checkered sarongs and peci caps?

The Tourism Information Center (TIC) (also SIC) can provide help with all aspects of visiting Sumenep.

• 2025 update: The TIC’s closed. But fear not. The Madurese have great powers of perception. Somebody will soon turn up and point you where you want to go.
• 2026 update: The Visit Sumenep Instagram account is worth checking out for updates and visuals. Failing that, the Kabupaten Sumenep website has a tourism section and contact details.

Asta Tinggi (6.9966° S, 113.8435° E)

A visit to the royal tombs of Asta Tinggi, built in 1763, will bring with it an appreciation of Sumenep’s history. To reach the burial grounds, a well-known pilgrimage site, head 4km north of Masjid Agung to the highland village of Kebonagung. It is best to go on foot, to mimic these solemn and holy journeys of yore.

The tombs conjure the feeling of something close at hand, but just out of reach. The British Navy, for instance, found that, when they tried to bomb the site from Kalianget in the early twentieth century, their shells failed to damage the high-and-far-away site at all.

The way is often beset by rampaging trucks and vans, sent to test the pilgrims’ resolve. But once they arrive, a spot close to the clouds awaits them. From there, they can enjoy Sumenep’s rugged, windswept terrain. Swaying palm trees frame a courtyard, behind which await the tombs. An atmosphere of understated grandeur sits in the air, where it smothers the clacking of lato lato balls.

Within the complex, reached through a high, sturdy gate, all eyes fall upon the splendid domed tombs of Bendoro Saod, Pangeran Djimat and Pangeran Pulang Djiwo. Swathes of rich green and yellow add colour to the site. All around, ornaments, wood carvings and Ionic columns show the architectural styles at play – Hindu, Chinese, European. Each aspect invokes a state of deep sleep. And they dignify the burial ground’s dwellers, who rest at Asta Tinggi in eternal slumber.

The Power of Bull-Racing

The renowned Karapan Sapi bull races run at Kota Sumenep’s Giling Stadium between July and October. 

In days of yore, with the harvest of crops like tobacco and rice done for another season, plough teams would race across the bare fields.

Organisers had many reasons for the races, but three stand out. Firstly, the thundering contests would keep the bulls in shape. Secondly, owners could show, conclusively, who had the strongest and quickest bulls. And thirdly, a friendly wager adds a bit of spice to life.

Thus, humans set bulls against one another. In those days, the races saw two pairs of such beasts race down the track. On their backs perched young ‘jockeys’, who clung to wooden sledges. It seems that the best teams blended balance and luck, for if one or both bulls tipped into frenzy, the poor jockey would bear the brunt in the form of spectacular crashes, gory injuries and shattered limbs.

Not much has changed since. As the bulls thunder down the track, they can confer pride or failure upon their owners.

Traditional Madurese saronen folk ensemble often soundtrack this rousing, kinetic scene. These musicians, who sport silk outfits and play in the gamelan tradition, inspire a hypnotic fervour. Their choreographed moves merge with an insistent combination of gongs, drums and double reed. The resulting swirl has prompted reports from some visitors that they have seen the Soul of Madura made flesh. The thump-thump-thump of many tons of bovine flesh moving at tremendous speed, and the thrill of danger as they race by, can have that effect on people not used to such things.

• 2026 update: The stadium has reopened after a period of closure. Find it on Jalan KH Agus Salim. Races tend to start at 3 pm – check Event Sumenep or Go Sumenep.

Sape Sono’, a Beauty Contest for Cows

Livestock and the glory associated with it make for big business in Indonesia. And whilst the bull races have a distinctly macho I’m-the-best vibe, they somehow lack the grace of controlled movement. Luckily, the stately cows of Madura are on hand to show just how shapely they can be. Power and strength are all good, but a bit of glam goes a long way, too.

No surprise, then, that in Sumenep, the Soul of Madura, one may find Sape Sono’, a beauty contest for cows. This event takes place around the regency in October. The animals, bedecked in finery that mimics bridal elegance, amaze with their graceful appearance and stately movement.

Tong Tong’s Carnival Atmosphere

Sumenep has much to show. And in October, these offerings reach their peak. This is the time when the Soul of Madura most proudly shows its heart. Great celebrations ensue, and many people come to bask in the dances, clothes, food, music and other things that carry the lifeblood of Pulau Garam.

October marks the anniversary of the region’s founding, you see. And what better time is there to showcase a place’s heritage to the world?

The Tong Tong music festival certainly lifts the spirits. Here, thousands line Kota’s streets, and they find much to stir their senses. It is a glorious sight to behold.

Bands of percussionists, trumpeters, dancers and singers, resplendent in traditional costumes and transported on a procession of ornately carved carts, weave together Madurese songs and music. Animals with jewels for eyes herald the arrival of these groups, and they sometimes get in amongst the crowd. There, they stalk the watchers and jump upon those not paying attention, drawing surprised yelps that merge with the barrage of sound and dance.

Batuputih’s Limestone Scenery

The mined limestone cliffs of Bukit Kapur entice visitors to Sumenep’s northern coastline. There, they may find rural, green land that somehow matches the verdancy of Indonesia’s forests and rice fields but seems completely removed from them. It is a deeper green, perhaps. Less weathered than the mainland, but equally as pure.

And amongst this stunning landscape, overlooking the ocean in places, await the cliffs. Their distinct carvings and angular forms command the view of all who see them. Expect a surreal landscape reminiscent of the skewed artwork of M C Escher. Cubed and angular, the place elicits the sensation of an abstract city. The outside world seems to vanish, absorbed by the limestone. Sound soon recedes, and perspective becomes confused. Some visitors report an attack of nerves, shocked by the isolation they find. But none forget the many-angled forms of Batuputih.

The Soul of Madura: Sightseeing

Kota Sumenep rewards visitors keen to get out and about. Start a sightseeing tour at Masjid Agung Sumenep, one of Indonesia’s oldest mosques. This iconic landmark has a striking white and yellow gateway, and few people miss it.

From there, cross the road to Sumenep’s alun-alun, an excellent hangout spot which occasionally hosts batik festivals. It’s then just a short stroll to Keraton Sumenep, the former palace complex with an attendant museum that houses relics, ancient weapons, manuscripts and more.

Finally, head for the royal tombs of Asta Tinggi. This popular pilgrimage site boasts a unique blend of Hindu, Chinese and European architecture. The 10km round trek features many nooks, crannies and colourful side streets. If the humidity proves too much, catch a lift on a becak rickshaw. These modified bicycles offer a smooth respite as they float along Sumenep’s streets, seemingly carried by the cool breezes that buffet the place.

Travel To and From Sumenep

Flights

Daily direct flights with Wings Air are available between Juanda International Airport in Surabaya and Trunojoyo Airport. Flights leave the former at 12.50 pm and make the return journey at 1.50 pm.

• 2026 update: The airport no longer receives commercial flights. That might well change. Check where you’d normally look for flights. It makes no sense to leave a perfectly fine airport dormant, so you’d expect flights to start up again at some point. When, though, is another question.

Buses

A regular bus service serves Madura. Journeys between Surabaya’s Terminal Bungurasih and Terminal Arya Wiraraja on Sumenep’s outskirts should take anything between four and six hours. Maybe even longer if the traffic’s bad. Resign yourself to cramped and stifling conditions. Many vehicles do not leave until all space – including the stairwells and passageways – is full. But that’s not always the case, and you might have whole sections of the bus to yourself, too, especially because a lot of people get off the bus at Bangkalan, Sampang and Pamekasan, the three major stops before Sumenep.

Take the following as a (very) vague guide for bus travel across Madura to and from Surabaya*:

• Damri bus from Surabaya airport to Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih (Surabaya): 25,000R, 30 minutes
• Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih (Surabaya) to Bangkalan (Terminal Bangkalan): 40,000R, two to three hours
• Bangkalan (Terminal Bangkalan)to Sumenep (Terminal Arya Wiraraja): 50,000R, four to five hours**
• Sumenep (Terminal Arya Wiraraja) to Pamekasan (Terminal Ronggosukowati): 15,000R, one hour
• Pamekasan (Terminal Ronggosukowati) to Sampang (Terminal Sampang): 15,000R, one hour
• Sampang (Terminal Sampang) to Surabaya (Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih): 40,000R, four hours

*Some bus operators might not go to terminals; many use drop-off points in and around town instead, so be prepared to complete at least one leg of your journey from an unknown and unexpected place. There’ll usually be an ojek or minivan on hand, though, so don’t get too flustered

**If it’s a market day, expect to double that time

• 2026 reminder: These prices were correct-ish at the time of writing, but they’ve probably changed. The buses are cash-only, at least in our experience, and it pays to have a good mix of banknotes and, ideally, a working knowledge of Bahasa Indonesia numbers so that you know how much the ticket costs.

Boats

• Boats go from Kalianget port to Talango, Sapudi, Raas and the Kangeans.
  • We got a morning ferry to Talango, and it was gratis (which means you pay nothing)
  • The ferry came and went in the way that ferries do, meaning you might have to wait a while to make a crossing; the process itself – loading, crossing, unloading – took about 20 minutes
  • The other destinations, we didn’t visit and can’t vouch for costs and logistics
    • It looks like there are 3 weekly sailings to the Kangeans; visitors familiar with going to places like the Togeans in Sulawesi and Maluku’s Banda and Kei islands will probably know how to organise and what to expect in terms of irregular and non-daily crossings
  • The PELNI website might be worth checking out
• Boats go from Dungkek port to Gili Iyang / Pulau Oksigen
• Boats go from Tanjung Saronggi to Gili Labak, Gili Genting and Gili Raja
  • Smaller harbour, this. As is the way with such things, ask around if it’s not obvious where to buy a ticket, find the right boat and so on
  • The sea can be a bit choppy around here. And also forebodingly black. Making the return trip from Labak to Saronggi, with the boat buffeted by waves that sluiced over the sides and soaked everyone on board, we became convinced that something large and menacing was about to surface at any moment, and it was not a pleasant feeling

Getting Around the Soul of Madura

Kota Sumenep is compact and lends itself well to walking. The streets are open, the pavements are mostly in good condition, and the traffic rarely becomes too heavy.

Locations to the west of Kota are reachable via the Arya Wiraraja bus terminal.

All points north, east and south of the city are reachable via a minivan service. Newcomers might need a bit of help here because costs, timetables, destinations and so on aren’t obvious. But the general form runs thus: flag down the van, state your destination, arrive, pay the fare.

It might be worth checking the price before setting off. Some people report being overcharged, but when the extra cost comes to roughly 50 cents, one has to question how much it’s worth getting wound up about. Still, it’s good to have at least a vague idea of how things work.

If visitors wish to go anywhere, they should consider bringing their own transport or hiring a private vehicle. Both things can be sorted out in Surabaya, but given it’s 2026 [at the time of updating this story], it’s probably fairly easy to find a Madurese guide or driver online.

Motorcycle taxi ranks are plentiful. Luckily, Grab and Gojek apps also have coverage, although it tends to thin out in rural areas. Wooden becak rickshaws, with the seats at the front of the vehicle, are also common. They are nice to sit in, but can feel a bit odd for first-timers. Some liken it to the woozy sway of a camel ride and the constant feeling of falling off or becoming unseated at any moment.

Where to Stay in Sumenep

Tourism remains in its infancy in Sumenep, reflected in the scope of its accommodation. The budget-conscious should not fear, however. Sumenep offers enough places for visitors to stay. As a rule, the more rural the area, the scarcer the places to stay.

Go Sumenep has a hotel section. We stayed in El Malik in 2023, and it was about 250,000IDR per night for an ensuite double room. Maybe costs a little more nowadays (2026). Clean and comfy, close to the alun-alun, many food options within walking distance and an Indomaret / Alfamart practically next door. Coming out of the hotel, there’s a nice ayam geprek fried chicken place about 100 metres to the right, diagonally opposite the Bupati residence.

Further south, near-neighbours Family Nur and C1 are good hotel choices, being close to coffee shops, restaurants and ATMs. They also offer the potential for socialising. Take a stroll towards Java In coffee shop, and chances are you’ll find yourself press-ganged into a football kickabout on the nearby pitch. Hotel Surabaya is a more central option, a short walk from Masjid Agung Sumenep – not the best hotel, in all honesty, thanks to the vague whiff of sewage that permeated the place.

• 2026 update: The pitch we played on has long since gone, but there are other green areas nearby.

For those wanting quick access to the Aria Wiraraja bus station on the outskirts, Hotel Musdalifah and Hotel Kangen provide a convenient location. The latter, in particular, benefits from a peaceful, green setting.

Light sleepers should remember that Sumenep has many mosques, and that loud Adhan calls to prayer begin at dawn. There are five of these daily salat prayers. A muezzin voices them through a loudspeaker that can produce a murky, distorted sound. Soon enough, though, most people get used to it. Some even come to welcome the pretty melodies buried beneath the drone and like to follow them as their echoes bounce about the place.

• 2026 update: Most of these places seemed to be open last time EitM visited Sumenep in 2023. But don’t be surprised if any of them have shut down. Plan accordingly.

Food and Drink

Eating is a no-frills and effortlessly-tasty affair in Sumenep, the Soul of Madura. Warung restaurants, usually of the point-and-pick Padang variety, are commonplace, as are kaki lima carts. In both settings, the usual Indonesian staples – rice, noodles, satay, tofu, tempe, water spinach and so forth – are down-to-earth, filling and effortlessly delicious.

Happily, the region also has unique delicacies to share. Rujak should appeal to Gado-Gado fans thanks to its combination of banana leaf, vegetables, peanut sauce and fermented petis shrimp paste. For added authenticity, watch it being made at roadside stalls using the traditional flat cobek mortar and pestle.

Cow legs are also a menu mainstay. Kaldu soto sees the legs put in a broth with green beans, while kaldu kokot adds fish paste to the mix. The use of bones in campor, along with peanuts, coconut milk, banana leaf and cassava, ensures no part of the limb goes to waste.

Sumenep’s take on Soto Madura, the island’s speciality soup, offers a distinct flavour incorporating bean sprouts, noodles, chicken, boiled eggs and steamed rice. Should that not prove too filling, indulge in nasi jagung, a unique blend of rice and corn.

Tasty Treats

There are rich pickings for those with a sweet tooth, too. Gettas, gooey fried lumps of glutinous rice and grated coconut covered in sugar, is a popular snack, as is angsle, a soup-like dish of milk, bread, peanuts and boiled green beans. The daintiest sweet prize goes to jubede, a miniature log-like roll made from rice flour and brown sugar, all tied up in a tiny bow.

As a mainly Muslim area, the Soul of Madura has very little in the way of bars and booze. Instead, vendors offer a wide range of teas, coffees and iced fruit juice concoctions, including stinky durian flavour. At night, coffee shops are the social scenes of choice. Take a pick from the larger, cavernous venues complete with live music and karaoke, such as Java In or Ramio, or enjoy the intimacy of smaller haunts as found in Tabularasa or Mbahid.

• 2026 update: Again, some of these places may have shut down. The coffee scene being what it is in Sumenep, though, you won’t have to go far to find a decent cup. Stadion Ahmad Yani, the home of Perssu Madura City football club, correction, the Great Perssu Madura City football club, has a resident coffee shop that offers a nice communal buzz and just enough space that if a customer wants to sit by themselves in quiet contemplation without being disturbed, they can do just that.

Islands and Beaches

Sumenep’s rocky landscape means it is not widely regarded as a beach destination. However, there are certainly a few ocean settlements to check out. Outside of holidays and weekends, many spots attract few visitors. The beaches aren’t necessarily within walking distance, however, so hitchhiking, minivans, ojeks, guides and so on would be the best way to reach these places.

The northern coastline’s rocky cliffs and verdant rice fields exude rustic charm, which extends to the open expanse of Slopeng beach in Ambunten. Expect sweeping sands and swaying palm trees. Sadly, though, visitors should also prepare to find much plastic waste. The Soul of Madura is a great place, but like many areas in Indonesia, the trash problem is noticeably bad. One visitor saw someone at Slopeng walk up to an empty bin and throw their trash on the ground next to it instead.

Combine a trip to the beach with a visit to Slopeng village. Here, in amongst the woods, mask craftsmen sculpt the colourful and much-prized wooden offerings found in Topeng Dalang dance performances across the region.

Lombang, on the east coast, is a long and flat beach. A boundary of casuarina trees results in an intimate, private atmosphere. Getting here can be tricky due to unreliable public transport and sketchy GPS coordinates; adventurous visitors should try catching a minivan from Bangkal market in Kota.

Gili Genting, Gili Labak, Gili Iyang

There are 126 islands around Sumenep, 44 of which are inhabited. Gili Genting is the closest and boasts Pantai Sembilan, so-called because of its resemblance to the number nine. The waves are calm, the water is clean, and it offers a pleasant setting for snorkelling, although the beach can become crowded. To get here, take one of the regular daily boats from Tanjung Saronggi port.

Those seeking solitude would enjoy Gili Labak. This pocket-sized teardrop has plenty of spots to watch sunrises and sunsets. The principal trade is snorkelling and diving day trips. But come the evening, a beatific calm descends on the island. To reach Labak, catch a boat from Tanjung Saronggi port. Regular crossings start at 5 am. Contact the TIC to arrange homestay accommodation.

• 2026 update: Reminder: the TIC’s closed. See the resources section, near the bottom of this page, for a couple of websites that might be helpful.

Serenity flows on Gili Iyang. Known as Pulau Oksigen due to the island’s higher-than-average oxygen levels, its inhabitants can enjoy long and healthy lives. Indeed, visitors report seeing older generations scaling palm trees with the speed and grace of someone a fraction of their age. Iyang is a rocky island, but Pantai Ropet and Batu Cangga both provide pretty sea views. Meanwhile, caves and a shark fossil showcase the island’s history. Daily boats leave Dungkek at 10.00 am and return at 2.00 pm. The TIC can arrange homestays.

• 2026 update: No, they can’t. See previous note. But if you’re savvy enough to have reached Sumenep, you probably know how to use Google and WhatsApp – ask around.

Sumenep’s Underground Information Network

On Madura, many people blend their Islamic faith with more abstract beliefs. Some swear by the power of magic and ritual. Kalianget, for one, has strong links to supernatural practices. Some say that the port is a hotbed of Dukun. These shamans use spells, mantras and herbs to offer healing, protection and good fortune.

But the scope of this power, which takes in mysticism and magical knowledge, can also unnerve people. So much so, in fact, that in the 1990s, violent witch-hunts, fuelled by the fear of black magic, took place in East Java. The hunts targeted alleged sorcerers, or dukun santet, whom, it was thought, could use their magical abilities to hex and cause harm.

Such is the reach of magic in Indonesia. Little has changed. The scope of a dukun santet’s power still commands awe and respect, and although they lurk in the shadows, many believe such folk still exist on Madura.

Like most avenues of faith, witchcraft probably requires trust in its power for it to work. But the belief, however localised, in dukun, santet and batu akik stones, which supposedly render the wearer invincible, shows the reach these things can have on the island. Such openness to unseen forces also suggests a high level of awareness. In certain cases, people can see things that others may not. No explanation, cynical or sympathetic, can quite explain why.

S.U.I.N

Some people might call this behaviour supernatural. Others, less so. Either way, it seems people in Sumenep know things they have no business knowing. EitM humbly suggests calling this mode of thinking the Sumenep Underground Information Network (S.U.I.N). The S.U.I.N seems to connect the strands of religious doctrine, social media and uncanny perception that may or may not have its roots in mysticism and the arcane arts.

Once visitors reach Sumenep, they find that many islanders abide by the Islamic belief that a guest is a gift from God, or Dayf Allah. This notion manifests itself in a warm, genuine and uncynical welcome that some may find overwhelming.

Those invited to a family home for companionship have spoken of receiving plate upon plate of food. They eat it under the watchful eye of all present, who ensure that the visitor has had their fill. Nobody eats before the guest does, who stars as the centre of attention. But regardless of the occasion, the visitor can expect long, friendly, interrogative chats and many selfies.

Since Madura receives so few foreign visitors, an outsider can spark curiosity. And as such, the same outsider should not hope to blend in. People will note their presence. They will share their movements. Presumably, this interest suggests nothing sinister or an invasion of privacy. In fact, it carries the weight of keeping a friendly eye out for a stranger. On Madura, like most places, citizens often track new faces to see how they settle in.

Vision in Sumenep

A few years ago, a foreign traveller encountered this network firsthand. They had made friends in Sumenep and thought nothing of it. They soon noticed, though, the strength of Madurese vision. These same friends, upon asking the visitor about their day, then shared the person’s movements and knew what clothes they had worn that day.

The friends meant no harm. Instead, it showed a slow absorption into the island’s rhythm. In the same way that the member of a community knows small bits of its members’ lives, through word of mouth and the like, so too did the visitor become, however briefly, a part of the town’s gossip framework.

This reach extends between places. A town boundary, for instance, does not hinder the S.U.I.N. The next day, this same traveller, having left Sumenep, went to Pamekasan, the next town due west. There, they found themselves at Arek Lancor. The monument induced the traveller to daydream, which they did until a stranger approached them. This stranger handed the traveller a ringing phone and indicated that they should answer it.

The traveller did just that. To their shock, they found their friend from Sumenep on the line. The friend spoke with a decisive knowingness, as if they had expected to talk to the traveller all along. But the traveller had not told anyone of their movements. This incursion came as a surprise and showed the strong pulse of the S.U.I.N on Madura, where people know things they really shouldn’t.

Scams, Crime and Unemployment

Despite its links to Java, served by the Suramadu Bridge and ports like Kamal and Kalianget, Sumenep, like the rest of Madura, suffers from a lack of widespread industry. Although culturally rich, its economy relies on seasonal things like fishing, tourism, salt production, crop farming and so on. Things that weather, a lull in interest or operational changes can really harm. Thus, long-term work prospects seem out of reach for a lot of people, which is why many Madurese migrate to other places.

Even a cursory glance online shows that violent acts, both petty and serious, blight Sumenep, like most other places. From a visitor’s standpoint, this might not mean very much, although it still pays to be cautious. We’ve occasionally been overcharged by minivan and ojek drivers, but never by huge amounts. While we never condone such behaviour, we understand that if somebody’s struggling, that’s the situation they might find themselves in to get by. There’s also the high likelihood that the perpetrator might just be a dickhead.

One thing to look out for is a mystery hotel employee suddenly appearing and demanding payment. It happened to us close to Hotel Family Nur when we stayed there. This ‘employee’ insisted that we had not paid for our room, but that he would happily accept our money there and then, to sort the problem. He, of course, had nothing to do with that establishment. If something like that happens, check directly with the hotel what you do or don’t owe.

That said, we’d like to reiterate that we’ve never experienced anything but kindness and warmth in Sumenep. We’d happily return there again and again.

Useful Resources

• Visit Sumenep Instagram account
• Kabupaten Sumenep website
• Event Sumenep
• Go Sumenep: events, accommodation, updates, destinations. Split into different sections, too, to ease navigation around the site. Interestingly, it looks like some of Sumenep’s islands and beaches are now served by fancy, powerful boats, like you’d see going between Bali and Nusa Lembongan or the Gili Islands. That’ll make getting around a lot easier. This is an excellent resource. So good, in fact, that EitM’s Sumenep content now feels mostly worthless.

And with that, this Sumenep guide takes its leave. Thank you for reading.