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Even in a country as complex as Indonesia, Pulau Garam remains shrouded in mystery. Welcome to Madura, O reader of ours.

By rights, the island should be a highlight of any trip through the region. It has an ideal location, perched off the east coast of Java and a stone’s throw away from Bali. Madura’s history, scenery and culture rank among the most distinct in the region.

And yet, this rugged island remains a long way away from people’s holiday itineraries. So much so, in fact, that many visitors to Indonesia seem unaware of Madura’s existence. On three trips to Madura, spanning 2018 to 2023 and encompassing Bangkalan, Sampang, Pamekasan and Sumenep, EitM encountered, in total, six other foreigners.

It wouldn’t be a surprise if, for the whole year, the island’s international visitors numbered in the hundreds rather than the thousands. And certainly not the millions of visitors welcomed by Bali yearly.

However, therein lies the charm of Madura. With the lack of crowds comes the room to breathe. Certainly, those who make the effort will encounter sleepy towns, raging bulls, gloriously beautiful mosques, vibrant festivals and an independent streak as intense as anywhere in Indonesia.

Welcome to Madura: Why go?

Madura exists in its unique little sphere, a corner of Indonesia unbound to the prism of international tourism. Although the island is only an hour or so from Surabaya, thanks to the Jembatan Suramadu – the bridge itself is a now-iconic Javan image and the longest such structure in the region – this accessibility does not translate into simplicity. Where is the warm welcome to Madura, one might wonder.

English is not widely spoken, public transport cramped. There is not much tourist infrastructure. The overriding mood is one of blunt honesty. In short, visitors can expect few concessions. As a predominantly Islamic island, alcohol is not widely available on Madura.

All of which goes to make Madura such an endearing and adventurous destination. Each visit feels like a trip into the unknown. A cramped bus ride introduces colourful characters into the traveller’s orbit, where strangers warmly bid newcomers welcome to Madura. Vibrant festivals showcase the island’s storied history. Many passers-by greet tourists – a rare species – with arms wide open and just a touch of incredulity.

Welcome to Madura: What do?

The beauty of Madura lies in its remoteness away from the distractions of mass tourism so prevalent on Bali and, increasingly, Lombok, Sumba and Sumbawa. Such tendrils have yet to pierce the north-east corner of Java, but with rumours abound of direct flights** between Bali and Sumenep, one wonders how long this relative obscurity will last. Happily, many Madurese are glad to help newcomers. Thus, any decompression one may experience is fleeting, and it’s easy to organise trips and transport – ask around.

**As of 2026, that’s probably not true. Trunojoyo Airport in Sumenep doesn’t accept domestic flights.

Madurese towns and villages are picturesque and reward walking. A peaceful jalan jalan will reveal sights, sounds, smells and characters not immediately apparent upon first arrival.

For many, the first major stop from Surabaya is Bangkalan, a town worthy of a night or two’s stay. It is certainly a fine welcome to Madura. Many head here for the bull racing, and the town homes the colourful Gelora Bangkalan Stadion (Jl. Raya Teuku Umar, below). Here, Madura United FC play most of their home games and enjoy a raucous support, even as the team labours to upper-mid table finishes in Liga 1.

Bangkalan is the first port of call for most newcomers to Madura, who will find an island with a culture and heritage as diverse and illuminating as any in Indonesia.

The salt mines of Bukit Jaddih (5,000R entrance fee), pictured, are worth the 25-minute journey from Bangkalan central. The beautiful white limestone cliffs combine with the views afforded by the hill’s peaks to make for one of Madura’s most stirring sights. On a sunny day, visibility extends for miles.

And thus, the visitor’s attention is attracted further across the island, where different sights, some hidden and some very much visible, await visitors.

Towards Pamekasan

Heading further central, Pamekesan is home to Monumen Arek Lancor, pictured, perhaps the island’s most enduring image. Standing proud in the city’s alun (square), the monument writhes in an attitude of prayer and devotion, as though inspired by the ornate Masjid Agung Asy-Syuhada behind it. Coupled with rousing Uldaul festivities – comprising floats, costumes, music and traditional songs – the town offers a kinetic, rousing celebration of Madurese culture and another warm welcome to Madura.

It would be remiss to suggest that Madura is a premium destination for the beachcomber. Whilst the island offers innumerable fascinations, its coastlines lack any conventional attraction and would most likely leave connoisseurs of such places compiling a mental checklist of other places they prefer. A re-calibration might be in order in these instances, perhaps accompanied by downgraded expectations of what can be found.

That’s not to say Madurese beaches should be avoided. Located about 12km to Pamekasan’s south-east, Jumiang Beach, below, is a popular hang-out spot. The myriad cafes and warungs make for a congenial atmosphere. And as the nearby salt ponds stretch into the distance and a fleet of fishing boats cut a swathe through the brine, the impression is one of homely and wholesome enjoyment. The scene feels a world away from the hollowed-out fruit cocktails and beach clubs of neighbouring Bali.

Bali, it should be said, is one of the world’s most attractive destinations for holidaymakers. And this is justifiable for reasons no reader will need explaining; it’s also why Bali is worth avoiding, if only to escape the crowds. Consider instead remaining on Madura and heading further east to see what resides there.

Sumenep, the Soul of Madura

Sedate Sumenep, for instance, which is Madura’s eastern-most regency and one of Java’s most charming destinations. The calm pace of life, open streets and rugged surroundings give it a distinctly Mediterranean feel. Some call Sumenep the ideal welcome to Madura. It’s easy to spend an enjoyable couple of days soaking up the serene atmosphere.

Since Madura is home to some of Indonesia’s most unique Batik designs, there’s good reason to go shopping here. Well-made, sturdy shirts cost as little as 50,000R. While the material itself can be pricey – in some cases over 900,000R a roll  – the quality is excellent. Toko Apollo Batik Madura on Jl. Raya Sumenep is a good place to start. Be sure to shop around, though. Most stores offer high-quality goods at competitive prices.

Sumenep is easy to see on foot, making it an ideal welcome to Madura. A leisurely walk from the Masjid Jamik Sumenep, above – Madura’s most iconic mosque – to and fro the Royal Tombs (Makam Raja Sumenep Asta Tinggi, below) should take no more than a few hours. Factor in a stop at the Stadion Karapan Sapi, or Stadion Giling, home of the annual bull races, for a complete sweep of the town’s landmarks.

Welcome to Madura: What expect?

A common perception of Madura is one of stubbornness, coarseness and fiery tempers. A temperament to match the island’s arid climate. Historically, it has had an uneasy relationship with Java, and tensions remain evident on either side of the Suramadu Bridge.

Whilst visitors will most likely not experience this enmity, they should notice a stark contrast nevertheless. Colourful batik clothing is everywhere, and many women are resplendent in vibrant sarongs and kelambi (blouses). Although Bahasa Indonesia is spoken widely, Madurese is the lingua franca and serves as the gateway into a unique culture of which the indigenous population is rightly proud. Picturesque mosques dot the landscape and colourful street art adorns many nooks and crannies.

In short, stepping onto Madura is akin to stepping through a portal to some alternate dimension. A place not quite Indonesia. The island’s self-contained, brusque nature manifests itself in an extremely friendly welcome to Madura. There is not much in the way of shyness: An impromptu chat on a bus, an invitation for coffee or the offer of a bike ride will make strangers feel at home. It may well be tinged with curiosity – not many people visit Madura, after all – but never intrusive.

Welcome to Madura: Where stay?

Accommodation tends to be at the pricier end of the budget spectrum. Although prices are liable to change, they are correct at the time of writing.

(2025 update: Not anymore, they’re not. Presume that things are a bit more expensive. Also presume that some of these hotels have closed – remember to do your own research. Booking.com, Agoda, trip.com, hotel.com and all the usual suspects will have up-to-date info.)

(2026 update: There’s not a staggering amount of accommodation options, by the way. But remember that some people are chatty on Madura, and in that chatting, ice is broken and contacts made – in our experience, people we’ve got to know on Madura have offered us places to stay or know someone who has a place. Something’ll crop up.)

1. In Bangkalan, Hotel Ningrat (Jl. KH Mohamad Kholil) is the only choice to speak of. Expect to pay 310,000IDR for an en-suite room. It’s a 5km, 20,000R angkot ride from the bus drop-off point at Tangkel. Call +62 31 3095388.
2. Sumenep has slightly more choice. Hotel Utami Sumekar (Jl. Trunojoyo) is a good central option, with ensuite rooms from 160,000IDR including breakfast. It’s a 45-minute walk from Terminal Bus Arya Wiraraja on the town’s outskirts or a 20-minute ride on a becak rickshaw. Call +62 328 672221.
3. Visitors to Pamekasan should try Ramayan Hotel (Jl. Niaga). Ensuite rooms cost 210,000R, and there are plentiful food stalls and sights within easy walking distance. Call +62 324 324575.
4. Pick of the bunch in Sampang is Hotel Trunjoyo (Jl. Rajawali). With ensuites from 150,000R, the hotel is a five-minute walk from Bus Terminal Sampang.

Welcome to Madura: Where/what eat?

For a tasty regional speciality, try rujak, a salad dish mixing vegetables with peanut sauces, cassava chips and subtle spices. Find it at roadside stalls and watch it being made from scratch using the traditional flat cobek.

There are many warungs dotted around the football stadium in Bangkalan, with a bowl of mie goreng, above, typically costing 20,000R. The setting is typical of food markets the world over and, for the first-timer at least, is perhaps best experienced by picking an eatery that holds the most superficial appeal–the colour of the stools or the smell or cleanliness, say–and seeing what’s what. As is the way with such things, patrons will eventually find their favourite spots and thus, is a bond forged ‘twixt diner and stallholder.

Those familiar with Indonesia will know full-well the effortless talent that goes into food preparation and the ease with which even the simplest meal can provide glimpses of the divine.

In Sumenep Pondok Salero (Jl. Tunojoyo) offers fine, cheap Padang-style food, while the stalls down Jl. Sedulang deliver piping hot sate with peanut sauce for 15,000R. Those looking for bakso should visit Warung Galipat on Jl. KH Wahid Hasyim. Amble down bustling Jl. Niaga in Pamekasan for street eats, cafes and wandering minstrels with guitars. Some tasty offerings in Sampang can be found opposite the general hospital on Jl. Rajawali.

(Bahasa Editor: If you want a takeaway, use the word ‘bungkus’. For example, to ask for fried rice to go, you could say, ‘Tolong, saya ingin nasi goreng bungkus’. Don’t forget, the Bahasa word for food is ‘makanan’ and drink is ‘minuman’.)

Getting around, there and away

Don’t rely on flights – Sumenep’s Trunojoyo airport doesn’t seem to accept many, if any, domestic flights. Buses and boats will be the easiest way to reach Madura.

While travelling around Madura is simple in theory, in practice, it can be trying. There are regular buses, but oftentimes they are cramped and sweaty; our researcher spent one journey jammed in the stairwell trying to avoid a sea of vomit on the floor.

Don’t be put off, though. While it can be daunting, it’s also a communal scene – fellow passengers will always strike up a conversation, and there are plenty of smiles going around. As with everywhere else, a few Bahasa phrases go a long way.

Take the following as a (very) vague guide for bus travel to and from Madura:

• Damri bus from Surabaya airport to Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih (Surabaya): 25,000R, 30 minutes
• Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih (Surabaya) to Bangkalan (Tangkel stop): 40,000R, two-three hours
• Bangkalan to Sumenep (Terminal Arya Wirajaya): 40,000R, up to eight hours. The traffic outside Bangkalan at weekends or on market days can be heavy
• Sumenep to Pamekasan (Terminal Ronggosukowati): 15,000R, one hour
• Pamekasan to Sampang (Terminal Sampang): 15,000R, one hour
• Sampang to Surabaya (Terminal Purabaya/Bungurasih): 40,000R, four hours

Additionally, there’s also an overnight bus from Bangkalan Terminal Bangkalan Ceria to Jakarta.

In terms of getting around, the ubiquitous ojek motorcycle taxis are everywhere. So too are becaks, pictured, the cycle rickshaws offering a calmer alternative compared to their noisier bike cousins. The Grab or Gojek apps work on Madura, although it’s probably best not to rely too heavily on them – but that’s not an issue, because it’s simple enough to organise transport through guest houses and so forth.

Useful things to know 

Language(s): Madurese, Bahasa Indonesia; Basic English understood and spoken

International dialling code: +62

Time: GMT+7

Money: Indonesian rupiah (IDR), in 2018, converted from around 18,360IDR to UK£1. Any time after that, it’s probably a bit different. Banks and ATMs can be found in the main towns.

Madurese language primer

Although many people speak Bahasa Umum in Madura, visitors should have a few indigenous words handy. Deploying a smattering of Madurese will imbue the visitor with further credibility. It can also provoke excited reactions. Our researcher once almost made somebody explode with excitement simply by saying ‘sakalangkong’/’thank you’.

Whilst this is by no means a complete list (see here instead for something a bit more thorough), if you want to know the Madurese for ‘bald’, look no further:

Thank you – Sakalangkong

No problem – Depadeh (artinya)

Excuse me (seeking help) – Ta’ langkong/takalong (similar to ‘permisi’ in Bahasa)

Please (greeting) – Tore lenggi

I want… – Kaule terro…

Ask – Atanya ah

Where is… – Edimah…

Assassination Classroom – Kelas ghebei mate e oreng*

Bald – Bhutak

Tall – Tengghi

*No, us neither

(Transparent Editor: This is a compendium of our previously published Madura guides. Parts one, two and three are available in bite-sized chunks. We’re still trying to work out why part two is by far the most popular section.)